67 GT500 valve cover gaskets

[charlie D]

Now that I have the heater box back in place, I am ready to reassemble all that I took apart. I removed the export brace and valve covers to have easier access to the heater hoses and blower motor attachment bolts. I ordered valve cover gaskets from one of our well known suppliers and received the FelPro  rubber gaskets. These gaskets are very hard rubber. There is about a 1/8" riser notch that separates the upper and lower halves of the valve tray cast into the heads. The old gaskets were cork. I just don't believe the rubber gaskets will conform to that change in elevation and make a good seal. The previous gaskets were cork. Anyone have experience with the rubber vs cork valve cover gaskets for these engines? As always, thanks for any suggestions.

[Bob Gaines]

Now that I have the heater box back in place, I am ready to reassemble all that I took apart. I removed the export brace and valve covers to have easier access to the heater hoses and blower motor attachment bolts. I ordered valve cover gaskets from one of our well known suppliers and received the FelPro  rubber gaskets. These gaskets are very hard rubber. There is about a 1/8" riser notch that separates the upper and lower halves of the valve tray cast into the heads. The old gaskets were cork. I just don't believe the rubber gaskets will conform to that change in elevation and make a good seal. The previous gaskets were cork. Anyone have experience with the rubber vs cork valve cover gaskets for these engines? As always, thanks for any suggestions.

I have always used the cork. I put a little silicone for added insurance at the head/intake point. FYI from the factory a silver sealer was applied to the gaskets. You cane duplicate that look by applying non smudge aluminum paint . If you apply additional sealer (I use silicone) be careful so it doesn't show . That is if you want it to look like factory.   I use Eastwood's aluma blast.

[6972boss]

On my recent rebuild i thought i would upgrade from cork to rubber because i would have to re adjust my roller rocker arms after 1K miles.  Well after only 20 miles the rubber gaskets slipped out from the valve cover and made a mess.  I am going back to cork with the silver like Bob says. Dont use rubber gaskets on cast aluminum valve covers! Trust me.

[Bob Gaines]

On my recent rebuild i thought i would upgrade from cork to rubber because i would have to re adjust my roller rocker arms after 1K miles.  Well after only 20 miles the rubber gaskets slipped out from the valve cover and made a mess.  I am going back to cork with the silver like Bob says. Dont use rubber gaskets on cast aluminum valve covers! Trust me.

I typically glue the cork gasket to the cover and only use the silicon on the intake /head connection . If you slightly lube the contact service of the engine you have a more then good chance of taking the valve cover off if careful and not tearing the gasket when having to adjust rocker arms etc. Some will use a very thin clear silicone on the contact surface of the engine for the same purpose. FYI use a rubber mallet to break loose the seal and don't use a screw driver to pry off the valve covers. You can smack the he!! out of a valve cover with a rubber mallet and not damage it.   

[Bob Gaines]

Most know to do this but just in case you don't ,you should trim excess intake gasket material that sticks above the intake /head gasket surface at that connection point for best seal . Then use a small dab of clear silicone for proper sealing insurance.

[charlie D]

FelPro has two variations of the cork gasket. One is all cork, the other is a little thicker and a combination of rubber and cork. Which one is recommended? Or is there another supplier that is recommended?

[Bob Gaines]

FelPro has two variations of the cork gasket. One is all cork, the other is a little thicker and a combination of rubber and cork. Which one is recommended? Or is there another supplier that is recommended?

I have always used the cork. I know how that works out. Maybe others can give a testimonial on the cork/rubber . It needs to have the cork texture from a visual stand point so it looks right (if that matters to you). It will get painted silver so it can be the wrong color to begin with. Also don't forget that for the gasket to look assemblyline correct it should have the 5 triangle shaped locating tabs that were used in conjunction with the regular Ford sheet metal valve covers. The tabs weren't used on the 67 GT500 valve covers but they should still be present on the gasket. sometimes they are left off modern gaskets and you have to make a facsimile to add to a existing gasket before painting silver. FYI the silver is on 67-70 GT500.

[1967 eight barrel]

Do NOT use the rubber/cork gasket. The oil actually migrates between the two materials. You'll note a "film" that dust sticks to around the cylinder head/shock tower/ intake and block at the front and rear.  You do need to use  a tiny bit of weather strip adhesive to hold them to the valve cover flange.

                                                                                      -Keith

[charlie D]

Thanks for all the responses. I installed the Felpro 1632 cork and rubber with some added RTV black at the fore and aft ends on both sides where there is an elevation change. So far, so good. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Charlie D

[1967 eight barrel]

You're not going to be happy with the cork and rubber. The oil comes though the gasket. You should have either went cork or rubber. I explained why.
                                                                  -Keith

[charlie D]

Thanks Kieth, somehow missed that first message with your warning. I have used cork and rubber in other applications. I just could not convince myself that unless I doubled the cork gasket that it would work. Will let you know if I have the same bad experience you did.
Charlie D

[1967 eight barrel]

Charlie: It's just the nature of the product.  If you frequent the FE engine forums It's a common issue as well. I have a 428 SCJ windage tray in my 67 Shelby. Despite using silicone sealer on the tray, block and oil pan it still seeps and the gaskets stayed wet. Dust sticks to the joint areas and about a half inch on either side of the gaskets. The valve covers gaskets had the same issue.

                                                                -Keith