BJ BK carb question

[BeaterGT500]

Howdy- recently dug out my C3AF-9510-BJ and BK carbs to send out for full restoration.  The date codes are stamped on the opposite side of the air horn (not directly under the LIST number) and are 363 which tells me they're third week of June 1963.  So, looks like these were likely off a Galaxie R code, not my car?  Could Ford have used "leftover" 1963 carbs on my Jan '67 built car?  Thinking not likely.
Question is, should I bother doing a full-blown restoration on these carbs with recoloring, etc if they're not correct?  Or just get them operational and working?  Not going for concourse restoration, just a nice driver.
Alternatively, if these are in fact Galaxie carbs and not totally correct for my car, I'd consider a trade for some Weber 48IDA's...
Thoughts?

[Bob Gaines]

Howdy- recently dug out my C3AF-9510-BJ and BK carbs to send out for full restoration.  The date codes are stamped on the opposite side of the air horn (not directly under the LIST number) and are 363 which tells me they're third week of June 1963.  So, looks like these were likely off a Galaxie R code, not my car?  Could Ford have used "leftover" 1963 carbs on my Jan '67 built car?  Thinking not likely.
Question is, should I bother doing a full-blown restoration on these carbs with recoloring, etc if they're not correct?  Or just get them operational and working?  Not going for concourse restoration, just a nice driver.
Alternatively, if these are in fact Galaxie carbs and not totally correct for my car, I'd consider a trade for some Weber 48IDA's...
Thoughts?

The possibility that a dated set like that would be used on a 67 GT500 from the factory is very unlikely . As far as correct It depends on what your idea of correct is. They are the correct carbs for the car with incorrect dates. Nice to have but not essential IMO . For example they would not be a points deduction in the DIV II concours because we don't check date codes in that class. In the DIV I premier class that does check date codes you can't have anything that is reproduction ether. I am only using the concours class's because many people use that as a yardstick.  You have to decide how important that date is. For instance your incorrect dated carbs are much better alternative then the reissue carbs with all of their many differences.  Put it in perspective are you going to run a date code correct Fuelpump? Are you going to run a date code correct belts,waterpump,regulator , Tires,etc. Yes they all have date codes. If not then one or the others will be out of character . Just a thought to put it all in perspective in case you hadn't .  At the end of the day you are going to have to decide for yourself what makes the best sense for your situation .

[JWH]

1) the number of people who can "accurately restore" your carburetors (notice I did not use the word "rebuild") is getting fewer and fewer with each passing year. IF you feel you would like to have your carbs recolored and every item on them receive the proper finish and ink stampings, I would urge you to get that work done sooner rather than later. Joe Bunetic restored my set of BJ/BK carbs and did a wonderful job. And he is highly recommended by other SAAC members. He can be reached at (618) 402-5062, leave a message and he will call you back.
2) if you are not shooting for a concourse level car, I would understand not going for the full blown restoration involving re-color and re-plating and getting the correct finish on each part. However any set of BJ/BK carbs is valuable and I would strongly recommend getting every part of the carb period correct - for instance correct metering blocks, correct float bowl screws etc. These parts will only get harder to find.
3) http://427galaxieregistry.com/1964tsb.html     if you do not have it, here is a link to the Ford TSB published concerning these carburetors that I think you will find very helpful.

No matter the date codes, it is a positive that you have an original set of BJ/BK carbs.
Best regards,
Jeff

[6972boss]

If you are looking for areadily nice driver then have those 63 carbs restored.  I have been running the repops for a number of  years. They worked great and no one could tell at regular shows. I never put my car in judged events as it is not concourse. I did, however, change out my 2x4 set up for webers. What a difference in performance and "wow" factor.

[2112]

If you are looking for areadily nice driver then have those 63 carbs restored.  I have been running the repops for a number of  years. They worked great and no one could tell at regular shows. I never put my car in judged events as it is not concourse. I did, however, change out my 2x4 set up for webers. What a difference in performance and "wow" factor.

Wow is right.

Do you know how much of a boost you got from making the switch?

[hertzdonut]

JWH

Would you give me a ballpark figure on cost of restoration from Joe?


Terry

[Bigfoot]

He did a carb for me years ago nice guy.
I would just call him and ask.
Probably "soup 2 nuts" my guess $400 per carb plus insured shipping.

Per carb.

[6972boss]

2112, i have not dynoed it yet. It did pick up some power and the throttle response is immediate, real crisp!

[BeaterGT500]

Thank you for all the great insight, guys.  I am concerned with the idea that as time passes, the number of people alive who can properly restore these carbs is dwindling.  For the cost of a full blown restore (even at $1,000) it's still not bad compared to buying new reissues, or changing it all up for a Weber setup.  The perspective on date codes and levels of concourse judging is also quite helpful, as my car is not a candidate for that class.  I've been blessed by the previous owner's diligence in assembling all the right pieces for my car, many of which are NOS and properly date coded, however it was a NY car and had lots of sheetmetal replaced.  While it will be as correct as possible, it had been ripped apart, customized, rotted out, blown up and left for dead.  Too many knuckleheads had their way with this poor car to make it fully concourse, at least on my budget (which is completely blown).
I'll give Joe a call and go that route with my carbs.

[gt350hr]

    IMHO you would be hard pressed to recover "restoration" costs as opposed to "rebuild" costs on a pair of '63 dated carbs. The '67 dated ones are easily three times higher value ( unfortunately) because of far higher demand. Your assumption that yours are too early for your car is correct. Late year '66 would be about the earliest date feasable .

        Randy

[Bob Gaines]

Thank you for all the great insight, guys.  I am concerned with the idea that as time passes, the number of people alive who can properly restore these carbs is dwindling.  For the cost of a full blown restore (even at $1,000) it's still not bad compared to buying new reissues, or changing it all up for a Weber setup.  The perspective on date codes and levels of concourse judging is also quite helpful, as my car is not a candidate for that class. I've been blessed by the previous owner's diligence in assembling all the right pieces for my car, many of which are NOS and properly date coded, however it was a NY car and had lots of sheetmetal replaced.  While it will be as correct as possible, it had been ripped apart, customized, rotted out, blown up and left for dead.  Too many knuckleheads had their way with this poor car to make it fully concourse, at least on my budget (which is completely blown).
I'll give Joe a call and go that route with my carbs.

I don't think you understand about NOS parts .  NOS parts are repair/replacement parts made available after the cars were built typically. Some were most were not. The odds that a given service part were made /dated at the same window of time as your car was assembled or for that matter even during 67 production are quite high against. Many parts are refurbished because of that. Many parts are not dated but others are . The trick is to know which are and where to look on the part to find the date . Many times depending on the part
the date codes  can not be seen once installed   

[JWH]

Hertzdonut, my experience was the same as Bigfoot -- cost was about $400 per carb and with shipping, expect about $900  total. I did send my fuel log and all the linkage to Joe and he colored that as well. He had to swap out one of the metering blocks so I had the correct numbers and took care of some other small parts that were not correct. Some will laugh, but in my mind these carbs are a work of art after Joe finishes with them.

[Rickmustang]

Joe has done 4 carbs for me. Agree on the work of art. In fact, one for a 1970 428CJ 4speed, I just have on display in my man cave. Rick

[2112]

I am curious, how long does that once finish last?

[hertzdonut]

Thank you Biggie and JHW. I think I'll call him.

T