Correct 4 speed bellhousing for 67 GT500?

[BeaterGT500]

I received three FE iron bellhousings and two steel inspection covers with my car when purchased in pieces.  What part number should the right one have for a January '67 built car?  Any distinguishing features?  Thanks in advance,
JT

[shelbydoug]

If you post pictures of each, that will help us identify what you have. There are casting numbers and casting dates on each.

The 67 GT500 I think is the C6 casting number, the casting date within a month earlier then the build date and it has to have the added pillow in it like the CJ bells do to clear the 11-1/2" clutch.

Some people are selling C5 390 truck bells and they are different.

[Special Ed]

c6oa

[shelbydoug]

c6oa

I can't find my pictures right now. Anyone have some to post to illustrate it?

http://mustangtek.com/Bellhousings/Bellhousings.html

[Vcode]

Here's some info on the bellhousing.

https://www.428cobrajet.org/id-bellhousing

[Special Ed]

There are some casting id date #s changes  from lh to rh side between the early  c60z to late bells & ford mpc says a c80z later  version is 68 & up FE but they are the same bell but ford changed the fork mount bracket from wire spring to the flat spring (hole type) bracket & ford sold the bracket & 2 rivets separate so they could be changed out.

[Vcode]

Ed,
Yes I remember the bracket with the two rivets being available.
I think I still have some.

[BeaterGT500]

Here are pics of the one I could locate easily, and it appears to be the right one but has a later date code on it than would be right for my Jan 67 car.  So, blast it to clean, clear coat it, then overspray blue to make it right?

[Bob Gaines]

Here are pics of the one I could locate easily, and it appears to be the right one but has a later date code on it than would be right for my Jan 67 car.  So, blast it to clean, clear coat it, then overspray blue to make it right?

The problems I see with clear coat is that first it will change the look of the metal and too rust will likely eventually form under the clear coat which will make it virtually impossible to fix with out stripping everything off. After stripping rust you can take a torch to the metal and as you heat it a dark patch will appear which is moisture. That moisture is what is typically locked under the clear coat to eventually rust . Preparing the cast iron metal for a original look can be a whole thread by itself with varying techniques.  I would strip the rust (however you do that because there are many methods) then overspray once mounted to engine block . Finally liberally apply one of the better rust inhibitors like T9 . If your not going to keep the car then the problem with surface rust forming under the clear coat will not be a problem for you. If planning on keeping for a while and pleasure driving then I wouldn't do the clear coat. That is just me others may have a different opinion.

[shelbydoug]

The date would indicate a '70 model year but I'd expect it to be a C80A engineering number? I've found '67 casting dates difficult to come across PERIOD. I'm still looking for one, a May '67 bell for my car. Forget about a May '67 thermostat housing, which I need as well.  There were probably 2 of those made?

These things are so scarce, I'm beginning to think that they don't exist.

The CJ bells, 68 and later, seem to be much more common?

The advice that was given to me was, keep the best one you can find and keep looking for the perfect one. Miracles happen...sometimes?

Why not just paint it cast iron grey?