1967 stance with 1" lowering springs and Arning drop. Header clearance.. 3.5"

[kjspeed]

Pic for Keith - 25-1/8"

[tonys_shelby]

I would pay the money to have REF build the headers that actually fit but wouldn't want to ship my car from PA to AZ.  Maybe he has a car there he could use with same clutch, bell housing, power steering etc.  It would be a bummer to pay the money and still not have them fit.

[shelbydoug]

Very nice but they resemble the Hooker Super Comp race headers. Those are individual tubes like these REF's and have the loops in them to make them close to equal lengths. Those Competition Hookers are 2-1/8" and are thin wall for light weight.

When they are on the car they are like a gorilla with the knuckles hanging down. They do fit though.

My thought about putting these big cube, big horsepower engines in the car is, is the car any faster at all in the !/4" mile? By how much. If it isn't, why bother? You can get into the high 10s with small blocks these days.

It would seem not?

[tonys_shelby]

I agree smaller tube would be better and if they are custom made that may be something they could do.

[tonys_shelby]

It needs to be a balance between fitment stock equipment with clutch and allowing a good performing camshaft to breath.  I'm sure a lot of you get it. Just how do we get there right?

[67gt500]

Make sure the headers you buy will fit with the original z-bar clutch components. The FPA tri-ys don't. You need a hydraulic clutch with those.
[/quote]

ShelbyDoug, i run the FPA tri-ys with the original z-bar components.. You do have to trim the bottom off the bracket that is bolted to the block, so it fits flush with the block.. but no need for a hydraulic setup..

[1967 eight barrel]

As mentioned, I am running the 6114 Hookers. I had them Jethot ceramic coated inside and out. They actually fit the vehicle nicely being I have no shock tower issues. The only thing I did for fitment is opening up the header bolt holes ever so slightly. I run the ARP 3/8 head polished SS 3/4" long bolts. I also only use the cross pattern holes.   I absolutely LOVE the new Remflex graphite gaskets. They are about 3/16" thick before compression.  The are blow proof and seal abnormalities. The draw back is the 39.00 price tag.  However, it beats the hell out of burnt gaskets and cussing while changing them every few months.
They call for 27LBs torque. I don't torque them, but I pull them down until I can pull anymore with the standard snap on and snub wrench.  Those are new to me and worked fantastically before I had to pull the engine with 176 miles and sleeve #6 because of a pourosity and water seepage into the oil.
Summit carries them for various port combinations.

https://www.summitracing.com/tx/parts/rfl-3015

[68GT350roadracer]

Lots of good information here.

[shelbydoug]

Make sure the headers you buy will fit with the original z-bar clutch components. The FPA tri-ys don't. You need a hydraulic clutch with those.

ShelbyDoug, i run the FPA tri-ys with the original z-bar components.. You do have to trim the bottom off the bracket that is bolted to the block, so it fits flush with the block.. but no need for a hydraulic setup..
[/quote]

I'm not the expert on everyone's headers. I doubt anyone really is anyway. I just share information that I have experience with which is all that we can do.

I discussed this with Stan on the phone. Him and me. I told him I wanted to buy a set of his headers but needed to verify that they would fit with the stock clutch z-bar. He blew up.

He told me he didn't care what they were going into, had no idea if they would fit with the linkage,  I'm a jerk, to get real, come into the new century and put in a hydraulic clutch like everyone else is. I took that as a no. Consequently I didn't buy them. 

I'm glad that your situation worked out and that you share that information with us. 

[tonys_shelby]

thanks for that information even if it fits I wouldn't want to give my money to a company like that.

[1967 eight barrel]

All of the long tube headers need the drop braket for the power steering ram.  The Hooker 6114 headers work very well, they have been around for some time and the fitment bugs are worked out. The welds were of good quality. However, I can't say anything positive about flowmaster. Even though the vehicle has sat primarily while being completed for four years they rusted out on the bottom. I am trying to figure out what I want to replace them with. I want something deep sounding this time.

                                                                                                 -Keith

[tonys_shelby]

I do think they sit to far down for me

[tonys_shelby]

Keith, I wonder if it might make sense to cut the mid section and take a couple of inches out and revels them back up to get better ground clearance because they do fit well in the other areas. They will clear the z bar right?

[shelbydoug]

All of the long tube headers need the drop braket for the power steering ram.  The Hooker 6114 headers work very well, they have been around for some time and the fitment bugs are worked out. The welds were of good quality. However, I can't say anything positive about flowmaster. Even though the vehicle has sat primarily while being completed for four years they rusted out on the bottom. I am trying to figure out what I want to replace them with. I want something deep sounding this time.

                                                                                                 -Keith

In the case of my JBA's on my 350, IF I take the ram sleeve off, then a lowering bracket isn't necessary. Granted it is a small block BUT it IS the same chassis  AND the tubes are 1-3/4"od.
They also do not hang down like the Hookers do.

As a matter of fact, I replaced Hookers on the 350 BECAUSE they hung too low for my tastes as well as the collector angled down. They were also smaller tubes.

So the point is IT IS POSSIBLE to make the headers clear the ram and be about 1-3/4" higher (one tubes dimension) and the collector tuck in.

If you actually look at the original H pipes on these cars, they actually angle down like the headers do BUT then turn up. I never could figure out why but you can clearly see the y-pipe in vintage pictures of the car.


The big block Hookers CAN be altered to give you more ground clearance but they would have to be done on the car. Then sent out for coating. I have a set sitting right here I bought used off of a 69 428 CJ for $100. They are painted, had been fit as evident by the hammer dings in them here and there.

The plan is to mount them and ATTEMPT to alter them to fit higher. I can weld both gas, tig and stick so for me it's less of a problem.

For me, the Hookers are a compromise on the 500. I've had bigger tubes on my small blocks. When I had the Boss 351 in my 350, those were 2"od long tube primaries and they fit like a glove. Those were a brand called Pro Stocks and sold through Gratiot in Detroit.

I can can live with the compromise and I just have to accept only gaining 100hp over the iron manifolds. Some compromises just make life tough I guess?  I'll just have to rough it.


I have flowmasters on my 350 for almost 30 years.  I blew one set out with the Webers on the Boss 351 during my learning curve (what a backfire!) but the other set is on there since '78 with no rust. How many years is that? Where's my slide rule? 

[1967 eight barrel]

Doug, did you buy the flowmasters pre-puberty?