Thoughts about 67 steering wheels

[Bob Gaines]

This is the steering wheel in my car #1317 located in Sweden. I have owned her for over 40 years now.
Steering wheel has never been removed.
Texas Swede

Nice shot!

It looks like the passenger's side dash emblem is non-embossed - is that correct?

Very cool!

I'm not sure how you are getting that detail from the low res of the photo.

[texas swede]

Bob,
It had this emblem when I bought the car in Huntington Beach, CA on June 3, 1977 and it is still there.
It's a non embossed silver snake. Whenever I get down to it I may change it to a NOS which I have.
Texas Swede

[Bob Gaines]

Bob,
It had this emblem when I bought the car in Huntington Beach, CA on June 3, 1977 and it is still there.
It's a non embossed silver snake. Whenever I get down to it I may change it to a NOS which I have.
Texas Swede

Yes the non embossed is a earlier style .The silver is faded gold . Have had many that started out as gold and faded to silver. Probably from the sunny SOCAL beach area.

[Shelby_r_b]

This is the steering wheel in my car #1317 located in Sweden. I have owned her for over 40 years now.
Steering wheel has never been removed.
Texas Swede

Nice shot!

It looks like the passenger's side dash emblem is non-embossed - is that correct?

Very cool!

I'm not sure how you are getting that detail from the low res of the photo.

...my eyes are that good...I kid. 

[oldcanuck]

I am getting ready to restore my wheels as well. Its in good shape for its obvious age, but it appears that a PO liked to drive wearing a ring or two..... the back side and top are a little raw with use.

Any recommendations regarding on the removal of the varnish that has yellowed on the black rubber, I assume its hard rubber, between the spokes and the wood rim ? 

Also.... anyone used steel wool, or bronze wool to clean up the spoke ?

Any and all assistance is always appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Bob

[JD]

I am getting ready to restore my wheels as well. Its in good shape for its obvious age, but it appears that a PO liked to drive wearing a ring or two..... the back side and top are a little raw with use.

Any recommendations regarding on the removal of the varnish that has yellowed on the black rubber, I assume its hard rubber, between the spokes and the wood rim ? 

Also.... anyone used steel wool, or bronze wool to clean up the spoke ?

Any and all assistance is always appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Bob

Not rubber, it's a epoxy like compound that was used as a filler and to bond the wood to the steel ring inside and that the spokes are welded too. 

Yes, sanding with the materials, or others, are typical.

[oldcanuck]

Thanks JD.....

If I am hearing everyone correctly.... no chemical strippers ?

[JD]

correct, I would not use chemical.

also, some have posted detailed refinishing techniques on this forum, and used oils (gun stock) as a final not clear.

[557]

Nice thing about gunstock oil is the finish doesn't deteriorate with touch,it is designed for that .Tedious process though as you have to lay down a whole lot of coats letting dry and scuffing with fine steel wool between coats.Takes forever,but worth it.

[The Going Thing]

The wood does take on the amber hue because of the spar varnish that was used, which has no UV inhibitors. The wheels are lighter than many. I have refinished a couple over the years. They strip easily with Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow can. A couple of them were highly impregnated with grease which made them appear much darker. I have repaired the epoxy that tends to winds up showing some level of separation on the backside as well. 
There is a steel wire ring that is welded to the spokes. The wood was steam-formed over.

[oldcanuck]

What is the safe way to remove the old varnish on the black epoxy filler at the junction of the spokes and the wheel ?

Thank You,

BG

[67 GT350]

I have 3 wheels, two original and one restored after the previous owner just put tons of milky finish on it, and did not test its sturdiness. (see 1st 2 pics and the last one),  I gave it to Jeff where he asked me how I wanted it finished, I chose no stain with semi gloss finish, it came out beautiful. Most important was it is now a solid wheel, (I wonder how many "refinished" wheels are so weak that it might break and wind up in your hands ar 65mph?

Go ahead, give you wheel a good yank, I mean a good yank.....I dare you! It might surprise you how hard you yank on your wheel while spirited driving.

I am also amazed of the saying, you get what you pay for, that is so true! Doing it yourself is a great way to do it the way you want, and be ready for critics to kick in! I don't give a rats behind what anyone thinks what my wheels looks like, the bottom line is, you put your paws on it and drive it, if that puts a smile on your face, then congratulate yourself for a great job, and or be happy that the money to fix/refinish is was well spent in your eyes. Some who look for a bargain refinish job are usually the same ones selling a lug nut for 50.00. Just sayin'.

Pics of the broken one, an over the counter, (original wheel) and my repaired/refinished wheel....I will post a picture of the third wheel later.

[The Going Thing]

Your wheel is fine. Slightly less orange than mine post restoration. The resin that is commonly showing cracks on the back simply holds the wood to the steel ring that is welded to the spokes. I have worked with three now. Not one had weak welds.  Jeff Stephens quote to just refinish the wood wheel was about 1,000.00.
That may make sense if you were replacing the wood. I elected to do my own and another two over-the -counter wheels. They came out beautiful.
As I mentioned, the Easy Off Oven Clean works great for breaking down the varnish. It's a trick I learned from an old-timer gunsmith. 
I've done many Garand, Carbine and M 14 stocks.

[JD]

Rotated from above...

[The Going Thing]

Rotated from above...

JD: Are you the official site picture rotator?  I know you've done it for me a couple times too. Thanks.