Original Axle Limiting Cables

[gt350hr]

  Thanks for posting the pictures Bob. As I told you I am positive the cables were in the figure 8 configuration and I made "sure" they weren't when I bolted them back in. The figure 8 "may " have been used to better align the cables through the washer used to keep them from interfering with other parts in the neighborhood. Also of note in the pictures are the white frame rails ( original paint too) instead of the salmon color on the underside The area around the gas tank is also white. We can certainly look it over ( or under) at SAAC 43 if you like. Those are the original Konis too. This is one of the odd cars that got a '65 round back axle housing ( like 476 has too.) Wheel cylinders and brake lines have been replaced. Yes those are "shock extensions" as they were "topping out" due to the drag race leaf springs I use. The extensions put them back in their "comfort range". The aluminum bracket ( in the photo of the left side ) is the mount for the SW 240A fuel pump.
   RG

[GT350Lad]

Thanks for posting them Bob and for sharing Randy. Very interesting.
Cheers

[gt350hr]

   I learn too! As much as I "know"  , I never thought the figure 8 was intentional. Now that I do it makes perfect sense! I  will correct it before SAAC 43. Without this thread I would not have known . There is a reason this site is the #1 information source for our cars. Member and expert member interaction .
    RG

[NC TRACKRAT]

Took a look at the Bill of Materials for the R-cars and a "1/4-20 washer 354610-S40" is called out for the axle-limiting cables.  A check with AMK's catalog of Ford part numbers gives the specs as .250" id, .563" OD, .078" thick steel with S40 being Zinc.  In reality, this is not a traditional 1/4-20 washer but a thick version of a 3/16 washer which is nominally .050 thick.  AMK does not list stock on the Ford p/n.

[texas swede]

Hi Randy,
I saw your car has the shaved off Traction Master bolts like my car 5S275 has.
Was a Service Bulletin in 1966 fixing a complaint that that the bolt head hit the frame
when car was loaded in the trunk and or back seat (66).
Texas Swede

[gt350hr]

   Right Bo!
      For a '65 where there was no back seat , the bolts never contacted the frame.  Obviously for '66 that changed. Carryovers were made with the "same old bolts" and customers began to complain . By the time 6S477 was built the "thin" bolts were used to solve the issue. None of the three carryover cars I've owned had the "TSB" bolts.
    Randy

[madeulook]

I would like to know what the brand name of the crimpers are that are use to compress the ferrule.

Thanks,


John

[Bob Gaines]

I would like to know what the brand name of the crimpers are that are use to compress the ferrule.

Thanks,


John

The one I used was handed down from another restorer who retired. It has no legible mfg markings. It is in the possession of a restorer friend that uses it more frequently then I.  I would think checking with the garage door people for what they use and comparing the crimps would be one course of action. FYI I am sure it will be a expensive tool given the size and quality of the one I use .That is if used only for single time or couple time use.

[NC TRACKRAT]

Reasonable price, excellent crimps: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-18-in-Swaging-Tool-43834/205887557?keyword=cable+ferrule+crimper&semanticToken=20040+++%3E++++st%3A%7Bcable+ferrule+crimper%7D%3Ast++cn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D++crimp+tool+%7Bproduct%7Dcable+%7BproductName_nostem%7D+ferrule+%7BproductName_nostem%7D+

[Bob Gaines]

Reasonable price, excellent crimps: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-18-in-Swaging-Tool-43834/205887557?keyword=cable+ferrule+crimper&semanticToken=20040+++%3E++++st%3A%7Bcable+ferrule+crimper%7D%3Ast++cn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D++crimp+tool+%7Bproduct%7Dcable+%7BproductName_nostem%7D+ferrule+%7BproductName_nostem%7D+

That would be a great alternative if it crimps it the same way. It just might.

[madeulook]

NC TrackRat,

That's the ticket - I pull my axle to de-grease and detail and that required cutting Jim's cables. - Never put them back on, but I'm stopping by Home Depot tonight!

Thanks,

John

[SFM5S000]

Reasonable price, excellent crimps: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-18-in-Swaging-Tool-43834/205887557?keyword=cable+ferrule+crimper&semanticToken=20040+++%3E++++st%3A%7Bcable+ferrule+crimper%7D%3Ast++cn%3A%7B0%3A0%7D++crimp+tool+%7Bproduct%7Dcable+%7BproductName_nostem%7D+ferrule+%7BproductName_nostem%7D+

Hiya Stan,

That crimper works really well. I used it on my car. See pic (same pic from a different reply).

Cheers,
~Earl J

[NC TRACKRAT]

Lookin' great, Earl!  I like your rear sway bar set-up...adjustable and adjustable drop-links, too. Only thing about the crimping tool, you gotta eat your Wheaties, definitely not for wusses!

[Bob Gaines]

Lookin' great, Earl!  I like your rear sway bar set-up...adjustable and adjustable drop-links, too. Only thing about the crimping tool, you gotta eat your Wheaties, definitely not for wusses!

Mine has long handles so more leverage but that makes it difficult to maneuver while crimping and takes 4 hands in my case. The shorter handles make it more difficult to squeeze but that may be offset by easier access. I might just have to pick up a set to compare.

[NC TRACKRAT]

Even with the short handles of the Home Depot tool, it's a challenge.  Working through the wheel well, the handles have to be fully open in order to receive the ferrule in the proper slot of the tool but the spread of the handles is just about the width of the wheel well opening.  You have to be sure the jaws are in the right position and that the cable ends don't move as you close the handles.  Then the minimal mechanical advantage requires super-human effort to close the tool....But, it works!