Questions from a newbie

[Bob Gaines]

You gave me a tough question.  It depends a lot on what venue you plan to display the car at.  Some judging is easy going, some others are exacting.  Some you wish you just handed over the paint, sealers and stuff and say to them "install it to your dream idea", because you never understand exactly what they want, or why.  Some have an ajenda, some don't like private restorers, some don't like "that" restoration place.
  These cars where assembled at Ford by about 2000 different people, and with Shelbys add in some 50 more.  Every one is different, day to day not the same, day to day not "in the mood".  So variences happen.  I wish some judges would recognize that.
   But, in the end you have to put a car together that makes you step back and say "I did that".

  Good luck with your Fix-up, or restoration.  What ever you choose.  Enjoy.

Just like cars can be different so can the Judges. For example adept judges understand that there is a range of appearance to be considered in many areas of the cars to be looked at.

[shelbymann1970]

Thanks Steven. I can use all the help that is out there. I want this car to be right when done (next year - I hope).

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php is also a great source including photos of unrestored cars. Jeff Speegle is the moderator of that great site. Welcome. Color change a grabber blue GT500 Shelby? Who would do such a thing? Well I did back in 1990. LOL Gary

[2112]

Seems that every time I see a restored MOPAR muscle car, it is restored to perfection.  WAY nicer than they originally came.

Appears to be the accepted norm in that camp.

[Side-Oilers]

Just have a look at Ford's own professional photo of the Cougar 427 from this other discussion thread. Link pasted below. 

They didn't even bother to line up the headlight doors correctly for a beauty shot.

No one cared to the level of which we do today. Not the factory, not the buyers.

It's a different time now, and that's ok. But, as many many many others have said here, it's your car, do as you wish.  If you choose to show it at a SAAC (or other top-level) event, just enter it into the appropriate category and all should be well.

http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=5940.msg51425;topicseen#msg51425

[SFM6S087]

Kasearch, as you can see there are plenty of opinions here on the forum. And for the most part we all thrive nicely together. It's one of the strengths of this community – there's room for everything from rough barn finds to concours perfection to race ready, and all things in-between.

You started your post in the Concours section, but made mention of making a nice car for your wife. It sounds like what you want is a "near" concours car that will be reliable for your wife to drive. If that's the case, please let us know. The more specific you are about your goal the more appropriate advice you'll get.

Welcome aboard the Shelby train. I hope you have a great ride.

Steve

[kasearch@ix.netcom.com]

Let me rephrase my initial question. 

There are dozens of books out there on restoring a "Mustang". Which one has the most correct, or close advice on items like; was the car painted with the fenders on, hence the fender bolts are body color - or no, teh fenders were put on after the car was painted and the used X bolts to attach them; what style of bolt is used to attach the fenders (hex head, hex washer head, SEMS, etc - and I do know better than to go to Home Depot and buy, and use, a box of grade 8 bolts to mount the fender); what plating is on the bolt (Phosphate, zinc, black oxide, etc); what items have overspray and where does it start/end; where the car does not receive body color, what is showing - primer, and what color?  I can guess pretty close to the answer at a lot of these questions.  I KNOW that no one book contains ALL the answers but is there a book that will get me at least started?  What book would you recommend as a fair starting point.  There has to be an way to finish the statement, "If you really want to have a book to refer to, I would suggest getting.......".  I can then begin to narrow it down from there.

[Coralsnake]

Well , I have been around for a few decades and dont recall seeing anything like that.

The engineering manuals are helpful but, they do not address the Shelby unique aspects of the car.

I would suggest a visit to the SAAC convention or the Tulsa Ford meet to visit with people who have been on the same journey

Youre going to need an understanding of how the cars were built, both by Ford and then converted into Shelbys by AO Smith

http://www.thecoralsnake.com/1969Plantpics

[Side-Oilers]

Very cool and informative, Pete.

Did you ever get to talk/correspond with any of the old timers at Smith?  Charlie Droste must have a ton of stories.

[Coralsnake]

Yes, I have spoken to several Smith employees

[shelbymann1970]

Seems that every time I see a restored MOPAR muscle car, it is restored to perfection.  WAY nicer than they originally came.

Appears to be the accepted norm in that camp.

When restoring my vert I was at those crossroads. I also started back in 1996 and it is much different than it is today. Do I want to do it exactly like the factory  or the way I wanted. Lets be real most  restorations done the car isn't EXACTLY how it left the factory. Try duplicating the underside jet sprayed paint and color. So as I documented my vert I was NOT going to duplicate how my car left the factory underneath(see pics). I'd have to keep it bare metal in spots. So I spent 6 months in my garage perfecting my original floors frame rails etc for an over restored look. I love it. I also put white stripes on my car. I'm the one who has to look at it and with no intentions of selling it I did my car the way I wanted but kept it concours as much as possible to my liking. I cleared in the hood stripes as the car is also BC CC. 
Original factory finish


non factory all candy apple red.

[kasearch@ix.netcom.com]

You are right SFM6S087.  I am looking for a NEAR concourse car.  I don't mind the overspray, but to be criticized by one person saying that it should only go 8-10" under the body where someone else will say that 3 feet under is correct, is NOT where I want to go.  I'll let others fight over that. A simple overspray on the undercarriage is all that I am concerned with and need to know.  I fully intend to make the vehicle in to what I like.  If someone else doesn't approve, they are welcome to try to buy it and redo it in there own image. I am simply looking to avoid MAJOR faux pas' like using Home Depot shelf bolts as fender bolts.  I do appreciate the advice and will continue to ask. Just keep me point in the right direction

[SFM6S087]

Having done this before on other cars I'm sure you know you have a lot of work ahead of you. But you have already achieved a major goal by deciding what you want, and expressing that clearly on this forum – "NEAR" concours. That should get you off to a good start.

There are knowledgeable and helpful members here, and knowing that goal should help them tailor their advice to your specific situation.

BTW, you are in good company. I know a few hard core concours owners, but most of the owners I know feel the same way you do – near concours – with a tilt toward reliability and possibly a little extra power is their objective.

Finally, I don't think there's any book that comes even close to what you're asking about. I hate to say it, but you're probably going to have to attend some events and examine other cars to get the info you need. That's where those true hard core concours people really come in handy. You can look at their cars (and take lots of pictures) to see what is technically correct, then decide for yourself how close to that you wish to get.

Steve

[roddster]

  A few more tips:
1) what Pete said ( coralsnake)
2) all of the Osbourn manuals.  BUT- open to interpretation as to your car's build date, and also AO Smiths
3) Beware the assembly plant.  Each had differences.  Your Shelby was built at one.
4) Attend SAAC shows, Nationals, regionals, Locals.  You might even catch a Shelby at an MCA show.  Take photos and notes from correctly restored cars, not just any niced-up car.

[kasearch@ix.netcom.com]

as an FYI, my car was built 6/13/69 at Dearborn.  Based on this, if there are any nuances that would help me, I would appreciate it.

[Coralsnake]

I believe there is a panting reference guide on the concours mustang we site for 69 Dearborn cars