67 GT 350 (Early 10/66) Taillight Assembly Install - Right/Wrong Way?

[DGSOH]

Trying to fit the spare in the trunk without success, it's hanging on the inboard socket. As demonstrated in the attached photo the taillight assembly protrudes into the trunk more on the inboard side than the outboard side. I don't remember if the socket access openings are of equal or varying depth or not. If they are of varying depth then is it possible the assemblies are upside down, or swapped left and right, or something? If of equal depth then any ideas as to what's gone wrong?

Thought I'd ask before tearing it all apart.

Thanks for the help -

DGSOH

[Shelby_r_b]

I hear you! And, I'd guess that all early 67 Shelby owners have struggled with the same issue, given the extra depth of the taillight boxes. 

The best success I've had involved letting air out of the spare. Then, I was able to make it fit. It was still tight, but doable.

Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[DGSOH]

I hear you! And, I'd guess that all early 67 Shelby owners have struggled with the same issue, given the extra depth of the taillight boxes. 

The best success I've had involved letting air out of the spare. Then, I was able to make it fit. It was still tight, but doable.

Hope this helps! 👍🏻

Thanks Ruben - Yes I thought about that and I'm sure it'll fit that way but... means I need to carry an air pump too : )

I didn't install the taillights myself and don't remember their shape exactly, like are they tapered fore/aft or port/starboard (oops, an old life creeping back) in some way, is there a correct top/bottom or left/right orientation and is it possible to get wrong, etc.

[Shelby_r_b]

I almost forgot to ask - is your spare a radial tire? Those tend to be on the larger side.

I don't remember for sure if the boxes tapper at all, but I believe they don't on an early 67. They do tapper top to bottom on a later 67, presumably for this reason.

I do remember seeing the bottom of my forearms after finally getting that spare in, and they looked as if I had used them to chop wood. The top lip on the tail panel tore me up!

[Bob Gaines]

Even the E 70 15 speedway fit tight in the early cars with the deeper tail light boxes.  Not that it will make a difference with fit of the tire but thought I would mention that the repro taillight harness in your trunk is the style for a much later car.

[67 GT350]

I did not know that they used 2 by 4's on the tail lights....Do they go on the outside of the car or inside?

Just being funny...

[DGSOH]

I did not know that they used 2 by 4's on the tail lights....Do they go on the outside of the car or inside?

Just being funny...

2 x 6's and 8's, I mean I really tried to get that spare in there! Now I'm just kidding, used to prevent the tire from wedging up against the taillight.

[DGSOH]

I almost forgot to ask - is your spare a radial tire? Those tend to be on the larger side.

I don't remember for sure if the boxes tapper at all, but I believe they don't on an early 67. They do tapper top to bottom on a later 67, presumably for this reason.

I do remember seeing the bottom of my forearms after finally getting that spare in, and they looked as if I had used them to chop wood. The top lip on the tail panel tore me up!

I have both but the Speedway is just a little taller. The BFG radial is just a little wider presenting its own challenges in a different plane.

[67350#1242]

It is normal to see the inboard sockets protrude into the trunk more than the outboard.  If you are good you can file and shape the "wing" part of the inboard socket(s) to gain maybe a quarter inch or so of clearance before anyone would notice any modification.   Of course if the studs are interfering they can be whacked off some (yours look like they may be sticking out a little further than typical).

[JD]

the 6 studs (each side) were nipped-off with bolt cutters to shorten them - this leaves a very nasty sharp, rough edge on each.  If you're not getting the car judged then you may want to shorten more and smooth the ends.

(Bob is correct on the wiring for a very early car,  this early would be two loose wires from socket-to-socket. might want to fuss with the socket gaskets some too.)

This fitment issue is thought to be why the raised Shelby fiberglass tail light panel came to be, those also have shorter (not as deep) in trunk tail light box/brackets all to provide more trunk space for the spare.  Note all of this because the Shelby's got a +1 wheel tire combo - 15 inch wheels and tires vs the standard Mustang 14 inch stuff - and the unique Cougar tail lights.

[2112]

For a diver, anyone use a B9 style space-saver?

[BGlover67]

I asked the same question a few years back when I tried to get my spare in no. 83.  I found a modern BFG radial didn't fit without removing a whole lot of air.  A speedway (large Lettered) bias ply just fit with some encouragement. 

[DGSOH]

the 6 studs (each side) were nipped-off with bolt cutters to shorten them - this leaves a very nasty sharp, rough edge on each.  If you're not getting the car judged then you may want to shorten more and smooth the ends.

(Bob is correct on the wiring for a very early car,  this early would be two loose wires from socket-to-socket. might want to fuss with the socket gaskets some too.)

This fitment issue is thought to be why the raised Shelby fiberglass tail light panel came to be, those also have shorter (not as deep) in trunk tail light box/brackets all to provide more trunk space for the spare.  Note all of this because the Shelby's got a +1 wheel tire combo - 15 inch wheels and tires vs the standard Mustang 14 inch stuff - and the unique Cougar tail lights.

Back in the day we used to just grab the excess with a pair of vice-grips or water pump pliers and work back and forth until they snapped. The result wasn't very clean but left no sharp edges and cut line just below the face of the nut.

Yes, I think I remember a thread or 2 on the old forum about the early harness. I know it shouldn't be taped but the feeds were red and black with green and black pigtails on the repro and it seemed a reasonable compromise just to cover it all up with tape. Sadly a couple of the original sockets were damaged (like cut through the boot into the conductor, not by me) during disassembly so I had to make one of those decisions of compromise we all face on these journeys.

I was thinking about those gaskets JD, like maybe I can work them back into the boxes and get some wedge going providing I can push the housing out a little. Tell me, will the housing come loose and flop around in the box if I loosen the 6 nuts or is it like the lens flange is in part holding the housing in place as well?

Thanks!

[DGSOH]

It is normal to see the inboard sockets protrude into the trunk more than the outboard.  If you are good you can file and shape the "wing" part of the inboard socket(s) to gain maybe a quarter inch or so of clearance before anyone would notice any modification.   Of course if the studs are interfering they can be whacked off some (yours look like they may be sticking out a little further than typical).

Thanks - that's one of the things I was after. I don't think I'll be reshaping the housing anytime soon though... it fit before (well, presumably as I've only had a steel wheel as a spare since I've owned it), it'll fit again.

[JD]

Back in the day we used to just grab the excess with a pair of vice-grips or water pump pliers and work back and forth until they snapped. The result wasn't very clean but left no sharp edges and cut line just below the face of the nut.

Yes, I think I remember a thread or 2 on the old forum about the early harness. I know it shouldn't be taped but the feeds were red and black with green and black pigtails on the repro and it seemed a reasonable compromise just to cover it all up with tape. Sadly a couple of the original sockets were damaged (like cut through the boot into the conductor, not by me) during disassembly so I had to make one of those decisions of compromise we all face on these journeys.

I was thinking about those gaskets JD, like maybe I can work them back into the boxes and get some wedge going providing I can push the housing out a little. Tell me, will the housing come loose and flop around in the box if I loosen the 6 nuts or is it like the lens flange is in part holding the housing in place as well?

Thanks!

If you loosen the 6 nuts (some) you may be able to wiggle the assembled units some but be carful.  Might try some lube (liquid dish soap) and plastic tool to push the gaskets in a bit.  They don't fit great. 

If I remember right, the aluminum exterior trim piece captures the red lens, gasket, fiberglass rear panel and light body as an assembled unit.  There is a photo of a table full of these assemble units ready to install on the rear-end of the cars in the 2011 registry.  Will try and post a copy of the image.

Edit - image from SAAC Registry 2011 page 780, note what the guy is assembling not just the stacks of light units.