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Group 22 & 24 Assembly Line Battery

Started by Bossbill, February 13, 2018, 08:23:19 PM

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CharlesTurner

Quote from: Kent on February 05, 2019, 03:54:47 PM
I have a company here in germany that can scan every kind of parts with a machine and then print this thing in plastic so where is the deal? Making a case exact like the original and then put in a batterie like the reproductions of the red cap battery are built they are also only a case with a smaller battery inside and the quality of the battery inside is poor.

Have you priced getting something the size of a 24F battery 3D printed?  Have a place in NC that about took my breath away with their quote.

The problem with 3D printing is the surface texture.  It is very difficult to get a smooth surface like originals.

The best solution I have found is to 3D scan an original battery and use that to have an injection mold made.  Only problem with that is the injection mold could run $15-25k depending how it's made.  This would be for a hollow battery, 5 sides, with a screw in bottom that could hold a small AGM battery.

Another option is to mill the raised section of a repro 24F off where the sticker goes.  Then somehow figure out how to apply the raised lettering, either as an insert from a 3D scan/print, or something else.
Charles Turner
MCA/SAAC Judge

Bob Gaines

Quote from: Bossbill on February 05, 2019, 06:20:18 PM
Quote from: JD on February 05, 2019, 03:18:39 PM
The details you are looking for are known, the roadblock has been cost and licensing.  Also, without MCA wanting to see them in cars (no points-off for not having them) means little demand other than the hand-full of people on this and a couple other sites.

Do you have an agreement for licensing in place?  Funding?

(not trying to toss a wrench, I would like to see this happen too.  Start-up cost and Licensing was the stumbling block)

I'm not sure if this comment was in reply to me, but my objective is to make a high durometer silicone multi-piece mold from a 68 repop --  if we concur that the case mold is the same as a 67.
After I have a top mold I made another positive, remove the square warranty section and lay on the yellow caution in relief. Make a mold of that.
The idea is to make it hollow from a high durometer (60) urethane and hide a battery in it. The hardest part is putting lead posts in it and hooking those to the battery.

This isn't that technical -- it's the next step beyond 101 mold making. . My wife has hundreds of concrete molds, slip molds, etc so I'll enlist her help as the Mold Mistress (that sounds odd...).

I'm making it for me. I've done weirder things.
FYI this isn't the first time someone has looked into doing this. I have lost count of the attempts I have heard about. I have yet to see a prototype that even looks remotely acceptable. I wish you the best of luck with your effort because we need something. 
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

JD

#62
Quote from: Bossbill on February 05, 2019, 06:20:18 PM
I'm making it for me. 

Not an "attack on you".  If one just for you then I'm guessing you'll by-pass the licensing issue - one and done?

As for 3D printing, as stated above it is not a reasonable production method or final product surface quality or for mass production.  And the will need to have a licensing agreement in place to use the Autolite name which if I understand correctly Ford does not own, sold years ago.

Yes, making a mold of the top (24F) without the sticker pad but with the proper text molded in (the yellow is added on the surface later) is a great start, the samples I've seen were not correct (size, font etc) but again there are those that have/know the right stuff and can help. 

This has been brought to the attention of current manufacturers and they see no reason to change even after being shown the difference and offers to help and they already have the licensing to use and sell items with the Autolite identity.
'67 Shelby Headlight Bucket Grommets https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=254.0
'67 Shelby Lower Grille Edge Protective Strip https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1237.0

Bossbill

Quote from: JD on February 05, 2019, 10:15:21 PM
Quote from: Bossbill on February 05, 2019, 06:20:18 PM
I'm making it for me. 

Not an "attack on you".  If one just for you then I'm guessing you'll by-pass the licensing issue - one and done?

JD -- Although your reply was right after my post I wasn't sure if your were talking to me about licensing. I meant nothing with my reply -- just making sure I was replying to the right person.

The Autolite name is now owned by Honeywell, of all companies. Follow link for info.

Hopefully they won't come after me if I do succeed for the one (or two  ;) ).
Bill

67 GT350 Actual Build 3/2/67  01375
70 B302   6/6/70  0T02G160xxx

BGlover67

If financing is a big part of the problem, I wonder if capital could be raised via a kickstarter project?  Everyone who donates get's the opportunity to purchase the finished product at a reduced rate or something.
Thanks,
Brian R. Glover
SAAC Carolina's Northern Representative

Eritor

I have cut out battery from the bottom inside the -68 repro 24 i bought from Antique Auto battery 2015. Battery inside the case is Enersys Odyssey PC925 28Ah/20h. It is normally a well working  battery but the have use a non good orientation. I do the same but use a C&D Dynasty UPS12-150MRX 36Ah/20h in the best orientation for a AGM battery. We normally use this but in larger size for genset. GT500 starters take about 2KW, about 200 Amps so its OK for it. This battery can take 269 Amps for 60 seconds (gone in 60 seconds). Short Circuit 1475 Amps. I also change the red cap to the yellow cap and sticker from the repro top i bought from NPD but have the body/case still there.  :P ET
Shelby GT500 #0329 Wimbledon, black interior, C6.
Shelby GT500 -13 Black with black stripes, TP, PP, Recaro, Glass roof.
Mustang GT 5.0 -17 Magnetic metallic, Ebony Black, GT Performance Package,  automatic transmission, Brembo.

Bob Gaines

#66
Quote from: Eritor on February 24, 2019, 09:23:37 AM
I have cut out battery from the bottom inside the -68 repro 24 i bought from Antique Auto battery 2015. Battery inside the case is Enersys Odyssey PC925 28Ah/20h. It is normally a well working  battery but the have use a non good orientation. I do the same but use a C&D Dynasty UPS12-150MRX 36Ah/20h in the best orientation for a AGM battery. We normally use this but in larger size for genset. GT500 starters take about 2KW, about 200 Amps so its OK for it. This battery can take 269 Amps for 60 seconds (gone in 60 seconds). Short Circuit 1475 Amps. I also change the red cap to the yellow cap and sticker from the repro top i bought from NPD but have the body/case still there.  :P ET
Valuable Intel for those wanting to try the same thing. Thank you for sharing .
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

J_Speegle

Quote from: Eritor on February 24, 2019, 09:23:37 AM
I have cut out battery from the bottom inside the -68 repro 24 i bought from Antique Auto battery 2015. Battery inside the case is Enersys Odyssey PC925 28Ah/20h. It is normally a well working  battery but the have use a non good orientation. ...........................

Nice job and thanks for sharing (with pictures) your efforts. Should provide valuable for those looking for an alternative as well as motivation for them
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge

shelbydoug

I love the results but I want to get someone else cut the bottom out of the battery, deal with the acid and the lead plates. Any volunteers?
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

roddster

#69
  "Sticker for the top".  Yeah well I had one done in 3d, (the letters are about 1/16th thick or so) just like the original as I did a rubbing of an assemblyline battery.  That idea got shot down.  Funny how they don't remember that.......

Eritor

My cut is not into the battery chemicals. If you cut in cc as the new battery size at the bottom of the repro -68, you should not go into the lead acid but the case is thick. Discharge it before you cut. Use goggles  8) ET
Shelby GT500 #0329 Wimbledon, black interior, C6.
Shelby GT500 -13 Black with black stripes, TP, PP, Recaro, Glass roof.
Mustang GT 5.0 -17 Magnetic metallic, Ebony Black, GT Performance Package,  automatic transmission, Brembo.

J_Speegle

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 24, 2019, 02:04:09 PM
I love the results but I want to get someone else cut the bottom out of the battery, deal with the acid and the lead plates. Any volunteers?

I found an old early reproduction that had never had the acid added by the first purchaser for $25 at a swap meet.

Wonder what the faces of the people at the home recyclable item center will be when I drop off the chunk of lead I'll be taking out.   Can't think think of anything I want or need to make from it. Use tin instead to plate the gas tank filler necks rather than lead. 
Jeff Speegle- Mustang & Shelby detail collector, ConcoursMustang.com mentor :) and Judge

kram350

I see on the original batteries shown there are letter and number stampings; (yellow cap F-22 looks like, 60 8 07), and the red cap one (DKS). Just wondering what these might refer to?

Bob Gaines

Quote from: kram350 on March 19, 2019, 12:40:50 PM
I see on the original batteries shown there are letter and number stampings; (yellow cap F-22 looks like, 60 8 07), and the red cap one (DKS). Just wondering what these might refer to?
The yellow cap  in the picture is not a 65-67 original battery . I am sure the owner will take that mistaken identity as a compliment.  It was however made out of a later 68-70 group 22 original battery which are only slightly easier to find. The numbers you are seeing were already heat stamped into the donor battery case. That is part of a date code and MFG internal numbering system for that 68-70 time period .
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

kram350

OK thanks. I just took for granted as it stated "Assembly Line F-22" and the red cap one as original?