GT500KR front suspension rebuild advice

[TedS]

I'm looking for words of wisdom. My KR front suspension/steering is in dire need of a rebuild. The car is a good driver so I'm not looking to replace everything with "correct" parts unless that's just as cost-effective as over-the-counter parts. So, a few questions:
1. General recommendations on parts?
2. If over-the-counter, any recommendations on brand?
3. The car is not in front of me so I'll ask, is it difficult to replace the upper a-arms on a big block?
4. Any words of advice?

Thanks in advance,
Ted

[Coralsnake]

Its not difficult to remove the upper a arms. You do have to remove the shocks and the coil springs. If you havent done that before, seek help and be very safe and carefully compressing that coil spring.

Stay away from the off shore parts is my recommendation.

Save the originals if you take them off

[TedS]

Thanks Pete, especially the safety suggestions.

[corbins]

IMHO, there are good and "best" replacement components for the front suspension, and if replacing one, you may as well go all the way, (budget in mind ) Upper and lower control arms, tie rods and ends, idler arm, strut bushings , p/s control valve , shocks etc . All contribute to the driving and handling of the car. And a steering box re-build can't hurt. Again,  budget not withstanding. But doing it all will certainly result in a complete result. 

[vtgt500]

I've had my '68 for 42 years reassembling it many times.  Finally had the the time and resources to do it right.  Regarding the front suspension, have a preference for Moog product.  Sadly is now made in Mexico and China, but still OK.  Swapped new coils that are lower to correct the foolish, OEM nose high stance.  Also swapped new urethane coil isolator pads.  Upper control arm pivot and spring perch were very carefully assembled to have no perceptible looseness, yet smooth rotation.  Only use OEM rubber type control rod bushings.  Be careful to not over compress.  I lathe polished the compression washers thrust surface assembling with silicone grease.  Smooth as glass motion.  Replace the troublesome eccentric, camber adjustment with an aftermarket plate kit.  Use modern, performance gas shocks.  Can easily repaint to agitate the snobs.  "Correct" front alignment is a tough.  OEM specs were for bias tires and for liability most shops will not tweak settings, nor do they have experience with the Falcon design.  Took some research, but now have settings that ride and handle night and day difference.  Steering box rebuilds are a crap shoot.  No one in the aftermarket that I know of is making new sector shafts.  Not sure what the solution is if your's is worn?

[TedS]

I knew I'd get some great advice here. Thanks everyone. Still doing some house rebuilding after Hurricane Florence but I assemble plans and parts for when I get some quality car time.

Thanks
Ted

[TedS]

Just a couple follow-up questions. Not trying to be perfect in appearance but close:
Is color of front shocks blue engine color?
Top shock bolts zinc?
Shock tower nuts phosphate?

[Coralsnake]

Front shocks ate blue

Shock bolts are zinc

Nits on shock caps are zinc

[Chris Thauberger]

Nuts on shock caps are zinc

...missed it by that much

[Coralsnake]

Dont pick nits! 😀

[shelbydoug]

Nuts on shock caps are zinc

...missed it by that much

What type of zinc? North American or African?

[Royce Peterson]

He asked if they were engine blue? I know they are blue but I think it's a shade off from the engine.

Shock absorber upper bolts are cadmium plated without alodine, or Cad 1 in military speak. Silver colored.

Front shocks ate blue

Shock bolts are zinc

Nits on shock caps are zinc

[Bob Gaines]

He asked if they were engine blue? I know they are blue but I think it's a shade off from the engine.

Shock absorber upper bolts are cadmium plated without alodine, or Cad 1 in military speak. Silver colored.

Front shocks ate blue

Shock bolts are zinc

Nits on shock caps are zinc

I am not trying to be contrary on purpose however I have had many original paint 68 /early 69 shocks over the years and when compared to engine paint disregarding slight batch variations the PPG engine blue is pretty spot on . Zinc is shiny and cadmium more dull.  The upper bolts are spec out as S8 by Ford as shiny zinc and the lower nuts are duller S7 Cadmium . You most likely got the two mixed up. Been there done that.   

[Coralsnake]

I am not trying to be contrary on purpose

Well, at least there is one person in the thread that's not trying to be difficult.

[Chris Thauberger]

He asked if they were engine blue? I know they are blue but I think it's a shade off from the engine.

Shock absorber upper bolts are cadmium plated without alodine, or Cad 1 in military speak. Silver colored.

Front shocks ate blue

Shock bolts are zinc

Nits on shock caps are zinc

I am not trying to be contrary on purpose however I have had many original paint 68 /early 69 shocks over the years and when compared to engine paint disregarding slight batch variations the PPG engine blue is pretty spot on . Zinc is shiny and cadmium more dull.  The upper bolts are spec out as S8 by Ford as shiny zinc and the lower nuts are duller S7 Cadmium . You most likely got the two mixed up. Been there done that.

I wasn't sure about the shade of blue and I remembered we had a conversation about it back on forum 1.0

Thanks for clearing that up Bob.