headers for 427 FE Engine

[RSOHC]

I am looking for a set of Headers that will fit a 427 FE engine in a GT 500.  The current headers on the car are Hooker Super Comps with a power steering Ram drop bracket and one of the header tubes is rubbing on the power steering ram.   I have installed new factory style motor mounts which did not solve the clearance problem with the power ram. What are some options for solving the fitment problem while keeping the factory power steering? 

Lauran

[shelbydoug]

Extend the drop bracket more or alter the header tube.

[Rickmustang]

FPA tri-Ys in my GT 500 with PS. No drop bracket required.

[Wedgeman]

 

[shelbydoug]

Most old timers (like me) will tell you that headers ALWAYS need to be fitted to the chassis. Have them coated after you do that.

Tri-ys do give away power. The bigger the engine. the more they give away.

There is ONE set of big tube, 4 in to 1 headers that will fit this engine/chassis. They belong in the Louve. They are pure artistry.Art doesn't come cheap. Inquire with Mr.Gaines. He may still have pictures on his electronic hand held gizmo thing-a-ma-jig? Other then that, you could probably rent an electric hammer from Home Depot

[69bosssvt]

I have parts left over from my 428 CJ disassembly....you could build some...lol!

[shelbydoug]

I have parts left over from my 428 CJ disassembly....you could build some...lol!

[1967 eight barrel]

I have 6114's on my 67 GT500. Other than the drop bracket I have had to make NO modifications for header clearances.
I would venture someone ran over a speed bump and landed on the flanges and bent them upwards towards the floor pans.

                                                                                                     -Keith

[gt350bp]

My experience with FE headers on my GT 500KR is the Hooker Super Comps. Only issue I had was the collector flanges with interference at the transmission mount cross bracing on the floor pans. Collectors should have been 1/2" to 1" longer.

Installation was made easier by lifting the engine 3" to 4" and leave off the block engine mounts for header installation.  I installed the headers through the radiator support and was able to slide them up along the side without any issues. (Did  grind the  shock tower reinforcing about 3/16" for header bolt clearance. Using Summit small diameter stainless steel header bolts.) My car is using a Genesis block side-oiler with 482 cu. in. built by Keith Kraft. Now that the installation is done, I wish I would have used the Hooker race headers without flanges for my application, as they are larger diameter tubes and would not have had the interference issues at the transmission mount bracing.

Hope this is of some help to anyone installing FE headers. I probably have a series of pics of the install.

Don
gt350bp   

[vtgt500]

I've had 3 sets of Super Comps On my side oiler over the years.  Historically were poorly made.  Finally resolved fit and leak issues.  By design, the drivers side is unnecessarily low.  Car has manual steering.  Once visited with Kooks regarding custom, stainless headers.  They wanted $4000 to fabricate including exhaust.  Bit pricey.

[gt350hr]

FPA tri-Ys in my GT 500 with PS. No drop bracket required.

   +1 , FPAs and DITCH the drop bracket before it breaks out the frame in that area. Guess why I know???
    Randy

[PR]

My427 runs FPA, hooker sucks, that was the only choice back in 79, spend the money on and get the good stuff

[vtgt500]

As time consuming as FE installation is, and since most of us are into this long term, stainless headers are becoming a preference.  The thought of never having to deal with rotted exhaust the rest of my life has a lot of value.  Well made, TIG weld headers are almost art work.  Beyond that, my 2-1/2" Magnaflow, stainless exhaust is one of the best selections in 42 years of ownership.  Can have a quiet conversation at 65 MPH with the windows down.  Yet pulls so hard accelerating thru 130 MPH fear the Hoosier A6 road race tires will brake traction.

[RSOHC]

Any input on JBA headers part number 6654SJS?  They are long tube Tri-Y stainless steel with Silver Ceramic coating. 

Lauran

[1967 eight barrel]

Hooker 6114's aren't poorly made, as one opined. The flanges are 3/8 laser cut and the welds are extremely nice. I bought them uncoated and they have Jet Hot inside and out. They are at the same level inside out. I used an engine hoist, carb plate and dropped the idler arm from the frame, removed the center brace and the starter. They went right on.
I do use Remflex header gaskets, which are about a 1/4 thick until compressed. They seal and there is no issue with leaking as the layered graphite is not only good to 3,000 degrees but it compressed about 1/8" when tight.
In hindsight, I may have elected to go JBA headers. I don't care for the shorties and they sure don't make the same power and still have fitment issues. I know some like the FPA's.
My headers are 17 years old and there is NO rust, inside or out. They look new. Too much old school thought and wives tales going on. With technology comes changes. Just don't do what we did when we were kids. Black Jack Headers, flat white high temp paint. Spend the money on the coating. Make sure it's done inside out. I also recommend you don't buy the headers with the factory coat. Most aren't done inside and out.
The inside out coating also cuts down substantially on engine compartment temperatures.
If you elect to do headers, be sure to get rid of the transverse exhaust. I am running Flowmaster Delta in 2.50 necked down to 2.25. The tips are where they belong and look factory.
Quiet with the widows down at 130? No FE is quiet at 5400 rpm ( 3.25 R&P) with headers and any performance exhaust unless you're deaf.

                                                                                   -Keith