headers for 427 FE Engine

[shelbydoug]

There is no perfect header for a big block. All the ones that I know of have some sort of issues. Some have issues larger then others.

It would seem that a larger tube would be desireable but I suppose the answer is virtually any tube diameter with full length tubes is so drastically different then even the CJ iron manifolds.

I haven't tried them, but show me where shorties are nothing more then bigger tube cast iron manifolds.

I agree that I'd like the collectors of the Hookers long tubes to be higher but unless you are going Pro racing and need bigger tubes, they are a good compromise.

The extended power steering bracket mounting needs additional bracing on ALL Mustangs.


Prof.Gains had a custom set of big tube, 2-1/4" primaries I think, headers on a 67 427 GT500. I think they must have been mounted with some kind of a peel and stick mounting system?

He had posted pictures of them on the crashed forum previously. Maybe he can find those pictures and post them again? He does need a break to rest his fingers from typing here and he apparently does some other form of theropy as well, so he doesn't always respond to inquiries. That's understandable.

[RSOHC]

The mufflers I used were two dynomax super turbos part number 17793.  The inlet and outlet is 2.5 inches.  The flow rate is 520 cfm per muffler.  The mufflers are very very quiet. 

I did not use Shelby tips for the exhaust system because the diameter of the tubing inside the tips was about 1.75 inches. 

The dropped steering bracket was installed and welded in place so I don't know if the headers required the installation of a dropped steering bracket. 

My long term battle with various name brand shortie hoses for the power ram was solved with a pair of hoses from Rodie's Restoration located at 1406 Lohr Road in Galion, Ohio.  The hoses have different end pieces than those from the factory. 

Lauran

[Bob Gaines]

There is no perfect header for a big block. All the ones that I know of have some sort of issues. Some have issues larger then others.

It would seem that a larger tube would be desireable but I suppose the answer is virtually any tube diameter with full length tubes is so drastically different then even the CJ iron manifolds.

I haven't tried them, but show me where shorties are nothing more then bigger tube cast iron manifolds.

I agree that I'd like the collectors of the Hookers long tubes to be higher but unless you are going Pro racing and need bigger tubes, they are a good compromise.

The extended power steering bracket mounting needs additional bracing on ALL Mustangs.


Prof.Gains had a custom set of big tube, 2-1/4" primaries I think, headers on a 67 427 GT500. I think they must have been mounted with some kind of a peel and stick mounting system?

He had posted pictures of them on the crashed forum previously. Maybe he can find those pictures and post them again? He does need a break to rest his fingers from typing here and he apparently does some other form of theropy as well, so he doesn't always respond to inquiries. That's understandable.

Here are some.

[Bob Gaines]

More.

[Side-Oilers]

WOW!!  What does the engine compartment fitment look like?

[Bob Gaines]

WOW!!  What does the engine compartment fitment look like?

Tight .

[Side-Oilers]

That is a true act of mastery, Bob!

[shelbydoug]

It must take about six weeks to get the bolts in? No power steering with them either.

I might try the Doug's with the cross overs if power steering isn't possible.

I don't remember the flat collectors on those Bob. Is there another set you have/had that I am thinking of? Those are 2" primaries?

[Bob Gaines]

It must take about six weeks to get the bolts in? No power steering with them either.

I might try the Doug's with the cross overs if power steering isn't possible.

I don't remember the flat collectors on those Bob. Is there another set you have/had that I am thinking of? Those are 2" primaries?

On mine  in the pictures I remember it took me over 8 hours to install.

[shelbydoug]

It must take about six weeks to get the bolts in? No power steering with them either.

I might try the Doug's with the cross overs if power steering isn't possible.

I don't remember the flat collectors on those Bob. Is there another set you have/had that I am thinking of? Those are 2" primaries?

On mine  in the pictures I remember it took me over 8 hours to install.

The current price on custom built headers like that is around $4,000.

Often, the thrill is in the eye of the beholder. Would you say that set was worth the extra effort and money?

[67411F--0100-ENG.]

Hello Everyone,

I no longer have this complete JBA exhaust system that I had custom made for 0100 back in the very early 90's.  The header tubes were 2" at the head and then stepped to 2-1/8" and went into 3.5" collectors.  The middle section was 3" into the mufflers and then 2.5" out the rear of the mufflers and over the axle housing then out to the rear of the car.  We cut a set of repro exhaust extensions to fit the 2.5" tail pipes.

The car now has a set of conventional JBA SS Tri-Y headers with the rest of the system being SS that is 2.5" and uses SS Spin Tech mufflers.

Thanks,
Eric

[Royce Peterson]

That system is typical of JBA welding and quality.

The JBA stainless Tri - Y headers fit perfectly in the '68 GT500. They are 2" primary. If there is a thing named perfection associated with FE headers these are that. Installing the bolts was a chore but thankfully something that you won't have to do every day. The nice thing about stainless is that if you do need to put a dent in for some reason it is not ruining the ceramic finish. I did not have to dent anything as the fit was perfect, as was the fit of the JBA H pipe.

Hello Everyone,

I no longer have this complete JBA exhaust system that I had custom made for 0100 back in the very early 90's.  The header tubes were 2" at the head and then stepped to 2-1/8" and went into 3.5" collectors.  The middle section was 3" into the mufflers and the 2.5" out the rear of the mufflers and over the axle housing then out to the rear of the car.  We cut a set of repro exhaust extensions to fit the 2.5" tail pipes.

The car now has a set of conventional JBA SS Tri-Y headers with the rest of the system being SS that is 2.5" and uses SS Spin Tech mufflers.

Thanks,
Eric

[RSOHC]

The correct part number for the dynomax super turbo mufflers I used is 17733 not 17793.

Lauran

[maxjets]

Thanks everyone for the great info. It really helped me put a set of headers on my '67 R Code Fairlane.

It was a tight fit but it worked out great!. That motor is really breathing now.

I bought Mad Dog Headers after a strong recommendation from a friend who has used them several times. Great set with good quality. Easy to install. Took about six weeks to get them built and shipped. Tight clearance on the driver's side shock tower but nothing terrible.

I had to remove the starter, alternator and motor mounts. Jacked up the motor about three inches. Not too bad after all that stuff is out of the way.

The original cast iron headers and the original "H" pipe exhaust were in great shape but the small (2-1/4") size were creating a fair amount of back pressure.

When I was taking it apart I found a flapper valve on the passenger side directly after the cast iron header. Someone told me it was to provide heat to the automatic choke. Seems like an odd way to do that.

I put 3" pipes all the way out the rear with a set Moroso Spriral Flow mufflers and a set of cutouts. Sounds great!! The motor has been "improved" and when I open the cutouts it is LOUD!!!! I have side exits on 6S135 but this is another dimension of loud. Wife says it is brutal, vicious and ferocious. I get a perma-smile that lasts for about an hour after reving through the cutouts. Through the mufflers with the windows up it is quite enjoyable.

[Side-Oilers]

Great looking setup!  Yes, I'll bet it sounds awesome.

Appears that your old heat riser valve has been wired to be always open. Therefore no restriction while the car warms up. 

I usually do the same thing on my old cars.