valve adjustment

[sg66]

  That method is fine with smaller cams. Using the "factory shop manual" way WILL result in loose valves on aftermarket longer duration , higher lift  cams. I've learned a thing or two in 53 years of building "racin" engines.
     Randy

I'm with you and don't know that I would completely trust the 90 degree rotation starting from TDC to land on the base circle. In hindsight, after finding TDC with a dial indicator and degree wheel and making any cam adjustments go back and use the indicator to find where the bottom is for 1 intake and 1 exhaust lobe in relation to the crank. Whether they're 180 degrees opposite top to bottom or something else, it should apply to all lobes. Then some simple math would tell you where bottom would be for each cylinders intake and exhaust. A piece of 360 degree timing tape on the balancer while adjusting in the future should make it easy to get to the bottom of all lobes.

[JWH]

This is from Comp Cams - 

Setting Valve Lash With A Solid Lifter Camshaft

First, check the spec card that came with your cam for the correct valve lash specifications. All COMP Cams® valve lash settings are "hot" settings (set at normal engine operating temperature) but will work for initial start-up as well.

Turn the crankshaft in the direction of normal engine rotation until the exhaust pushrod of the cylinder you are adjusting begins to move upward, opening the valve. Adjust the INTAKE lash by tightening the intake rocker nut with the correct thickness feeler gauge inserted between the valve stem and the rocker tip. Tighten the rocker nut until there is a slight drag when moving the feeler gauge. Next, rotate the engine until the intake pushrod fully opens the valve and then goes half-way back down. Adjust the EXHAUST rocker nut (with correct feeler gauge) using the same procedure. Repeat for all cylinders.

After setting your valve lash with the engine cold, start it and follow the appropriate break-in procedures. Due to thermal expansion, your valve lash will now be tighter than it was when the engine was cold. Repeat the adjustment process to ensure that your valve lash matches that specified by your cam card at normal operating temperature.

Note: Check with COMP Cams® on valve lash settings if using aluminum heads or blocks

[shelbydoug]

A couple of thoughts here.

1) the Ford shop manual procedure is made designed for stock Ford cams. The stock 289hp cam is an extremely mild profile. The engine was expected to run smooth and quietly new.

2) solid lifter cams are quite capable of running safely with a plus or minus .002". The possible valve train combinations such as aluminum roller rockers are all going to fall between those specs generally speaking.

3) if you have verified your valve train geometry as recommended by manufacturers such as Compcams then component failure is likely to be caused by other issues.

4) hydraulic lifter cams are made for a reason. Someone once wrote, "the meek shall inherit the Earth"... and I would add, hydraulic lifter cams as well.

The Compcams procedure of course will work but I can tell you that if you go that route, it's going to take DAYS if not weeks to get through it. In addition, you will find it more convenient to take off your hood but don't forget to cover the ceiling, walls and floor of the garage with 6 mil plastic because there is going to be oil everywhere, and it's hot and it burns.

The Ford procedure is the simplest and has the least variation from variables. I've been doing this since 1968. I have plenty of bumps of knowledge and strange proclivities for a reason. There is no substitute for experience here. Be the trail blazer that you want to. No one is going to stop you. Maybe you will be recognized in 35 years as a survivor? No one has shot me yet either, not yet, but I ain't dead yet. In this country, that says a lot? 

[cob4ra]

Thanks so much Randy for your help on the valve adjustment method! Just did it by hand with a socket and bar " wow " what a workout! My valves have never sounded so good! My backs sore and I need a shower after that !!

[gt350hr]

   As you found , it's worth the extra effort. I've done it for so long it becomes second nature.  While doing the intakes , I know which exhaust is next and set it saving some time. I use a "starter button" to save some bending over. 
    Glad you like the results.
       Randy

[cob4ra]

Randy if you're ever inclined to map out which exhaust is next it would probably have cut my time in half! I've got a BUZZ now not a click" tick or a "tack " !!

[Jim Herrud]

You are also going to get some people yelling from the cheap seats, booing as it were, that you need to do this with the engine running. Here's the word that you use with them. Poppycock.

Shelbydoug, I wish you had been the one to coach me on my 289 back in the 80's when I got my '65. Hot & running adjustment is the way I was taught. It works, but in addition to burned fingers, that technique can make a mess. Thank goodness for the internet and this forum.

I'm running hydraulic now.

[shelbydoug]

The coefficient of expansion is known for the engine components.  No need to do them hot. I actually think that there is a cartoon for the mechanics who refuse to acknowledge reading. I once got one a book as a present.

He said, "a book? I already have a book". Go figure?

The criticism that I get is that the engine is too quiet when I do them.

I always talk about playing the piano. My wife gets furious! "YOU DON'T PLAY THE PIANO! YOU NEVER DID!" Ouch, everyone's a critic!

[Don Johnston]

Love this thread.  Good discussion, especially after having an engine rebuild and making sure things are set correctly according to the experienced.

[427heaven]

You are also going to get some people yelling from the cheap seats, booing as it were, that you need to do this with the engine running. Here's the word that you use with them. Poppycock.

Shelbydoug, I wish you had been the one to coach me on my 289 back in the 80's when I got my '65. Hot adjustment is the way I was taught. It works, but in addition to burned fingers, that technique can make a mess. Thank goodness for the internet and this forum.

I'm running hydraulic now.

I made an aluminum tray or trough which fits in the top lip of the cylinder head  to catch the oil and return it to the engine,  and lays on the inner shock towers. Works great just 5 minutes each side, just don't whack the throttle and you will be happy.

[Jim Herrud]

... just don't whack the throttle and you will be happy.

Thx - NOW you tell me!