T-5 Conversion from Aluminum T-10

[gjz30075]

Great progress, Ruben!    Did you have to clearance the shifter hole?   What type of shifter will you be using?

[Shelby_r_b]

First, thanks to all for the responses!  I've learned a TON going through this process, and I hope that my findings will help others who are thinking of this swap.

Current state:  the car is at the exhaust shop getting the H Pipe redone.  As I mentioned, the pipes won't clear the parking brake appendage located on the transmission cross member.  Also, I did reinstall the original drive shaft just so the exhaust shop could ensure clearance while redoing the exhaust; however, I have a new custom built drive shaft coming (this was all part of the MDL order I placed - you take several measurements once the transmission is installed and the car is on all fours and a shop makes the drive shaft and ships it the same day).

The shifter hole - funny / interesting story.  Originally, I was told by several people that I should use my original bell housing and have it drilled to attached the adapter plate (so as to move the shifter on the transmission aft to the stock position).  However, I already had a late model Fox Body bell housing, so I opted to use that instead; which, as I mentioned previously, required the use of a Fox Body starter.  Upon installation of the transmission, I noticed that the shifter (the rubber boot located around and below the shift lever on the top of the transmission - not the one inside the car) was making contact with the bottom front of the shifter hole by only 1/4 inch.  My immediate thought:  why didn't I listen to the advise of others!!!! 

However, I called MDL and asked about removing my current late model bell housing and going with my original housing with the adapter plate, so as to move the transmission back the required distance...and that's when it hit me (mainly, because Bret at MDL explained it  ):  using a different setup (the original bell housing) would still place the shifter in the exact same position.  As Bret at MDL described, all of their parts are geared (pun intended) to put the shifter in the stock position.  And, it's not uncommon for the shifter to be a bit forward in the shift hole, as these cars were mass produced and not CNC machined, etc.  So, the shift hole can be off from car to car.  Also, it dawned on me that I would not be able to line up the transmission cross member, if I pushed the transmission back with a deeper bell housing (which would have to be a custom unit, not the stock bell housing) / adapter setup, as this would move the cross member back as well, placing cross member alignment too far aft.

In the end, I was told to either trim the shifter hole to relieve the shifter contact (which I don't want to do, as the floors are original) or keep an eye on the rubber boot that is making contact with the forward part of the shift hole.  And, the cross member fits like a glove, so no worries about unwanted pressure from the top of the shifter boot touching the bottom of the front shifter hole.

I hope this all makes sense.  Please let me know if you have different thoughts or perspectives.

I can't wait to drive it, again, hopefully soon! 

[pbf777]

     That always gripes my arse, when one contacts the component supplier after the purchase, in the middle of the installation (and you can't send product back after installation, even if only attempted), concerning a fitment issue, and then they say: oh-yea, that's not an uncommon problem, all you gotta due is..........HACK-UP! your collectable classic; how come that wasn't stated before the purchase!         

     But then, not to rub salt in the wound........., "I".........told you so!       

     Scott.

     

[NC TRACKRAT]

"... all of their parts are geared (pun intended) to put the shifter in the stock position." but they didn't.  You would've had a much better chance of having everything line up with no interference had you used the adapter plate and an original bell housing. Oh, well...

[Shelby_r_b]

"... all of their parts are geared (pun intended) to put the shifter in the stock position." but they didn't.  You would've had a much better chance of having everything line up with no interference had you used the adapter plate and an original bell housing. Oh, well...

Understood. But, to move the transmission back would have moved the cross member back; which would have kept the cross member from lining up. I could definitely be missing something, but the only way to remedy the situation is to move the transmission more aft.

I'm totally open to suggestions! 👍🏻

[427heaven]

Having gone thru this myself a couple of years ago with my 1966 Trans Am coupe replica, this is what I remember. Modern drive line is not some small time shop that dabbles in 5-6 speed conversions they are the leader in it and have great parts and customer support. I used a fox body GT HO 5.0 engine for my car which necessitated their kit and everything fit perfect except a 1/4 inch notch to be trimmed from  the top right corner of the shifter hole ,it wouldn't go into 3rd and 5th with out the modification no biggie really. I purchased their hurst shifter arm or something similar and was very happy with it ,it just wouldn't go into 3rd and 5th gear without trimming the hole. So my intent was to have my car look like 1966 but with a modern twist of a go fast small block and modern 5 speed, don't get pissed at them they can and will help you reach your goal.

[gjz30075]

Is there a way to slot the holes in the crossmember, where the trans sits, to allow movement?   It is an aftermarket piece, right?   But then
again, is it possible to move the tranmission back without having the input shaft 'fall out' of the bushing/bearing in the crank?

I, too, had to notch a small area in my '66 GT to clearance the shifter.   I've read about this issue so often that it seems there must be
some mod that can be made to the tailshaft to move the shifter back.

[427heaven]

I'm no engineer but a simple fix in my garage for the next one would to purchase a set of 1965 motor mounts which have a stud and a hole then enlarge the hole approx. 3/8 of an inch move the entire thing back and WALLAH... better weight transfer, fixes some other trimming issues. The problem is when you mix and match 1960s and 1990s parts stick with one or the other unless you have skills to overcome some fitment issues.

[pbf777]

You would've had a much better chance of having everything line up with no interference had you used the adapter plate and an original bell housing. Oh, well...

     Not unless the commercially produced "adapter plate" suffered from mis engineering; as the intent, or one should say the requirement, is to place the transmission as originally intended, in it's original relationship to the engine, regardless of where that places it in whatever chassis. 

     Now, this path of using an adapter plate or spacer (with either bell housing) does allow some re-engineering possibilities which we have exercised previously, just for this instance, but it does require consideration for other would be affected engineering intentions, some (not all) already mentioned.   

................ move the entire thing back and WALLAH... better weight transfer, fixes some other trimming issues.

     In most race car intentions, with this type chassis, this would often be an early intent anyway, as there is generally little concern for the appearance of the engine placement in the engine compartment, more concern for function, so yes, voila!   At least until you bump into the firewall anyway!   

     Scott.

     

[427heaven]

This topic made me go look at my 66 and I measured 3 inches before things get tight at the firewall. If the engine had 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch set back I don't think it would even be recognizable. I understand that most don't want to cut up there their pride and joy but a small trim on the shifter opening is a small price to pay for the benefit of 5 or 6 speeds.

[NC TRACKRAT]

As the saying goes, "I guess the Good Lord looks after dumb animals" 'cause mine went together without any trimming, the crossmember lined up and the exhaust system fit.

[shelbydoug]

One of the reasons I selected a different transmission then the T5, the Richmond 5 speed (then know as the Doug Nash) was better fitment.

In my case it uses a Hurst shifter mechanism very similar to the Hurst you would use in a vintage Mustang with top loader. The shifter mounting plates have some degree of adjustability and centering it in the original shifter hole was not an issue.

[Shelby_r_b]

Thanks again to all!

Doug - good point.  The transmission itself seems to be the culprit, given the mounting location of the cross member...and the way the cross member is manufactured to fit the car / transmission.
Stan - you are a blessed man!  And, boy - does that setup look cool!
Others - thanks for the suggestions!  I should know more soon and will keep you posted.

Thanks 

[shelbydoug]

I would say that, do what you need to do to make it work and fit. I can't see how anyone is going to have an issue with that when you decide to sell it or more correctly stated, there are going to be lots of buyers who won't have issue with it.

In the meantime you need to explore the new set up. You may like it so much that you are going to get buried in it like me?

[2112]

Doug, is the Richmond 5-speed a straight forward, zero mods transplant?

🤔

Maybe I don't want that Hone overdrive after all 😎