Oil Galley Plugs

[RSOHC]

What is the procedure for removing and installing the oil galley plugs located on the rear end of a Ford FE engine block?

Lauran

[1967 eight barrel]

1/4"  T -handled allen wrench. Providing they are threaded.

[RSOHC]

the plugs are not threaded.  I have a "Sealed Power" plug kit repair kit with replacement plugs marked 7/16".  The plug is in the block above the cam plug was not installed far enough into the block so the "dome" part of the plug has been worn away by the block plate associated with my Lakewood scatter shield.  The engine is in the car.  The flywheel and block plate have been removed.  Also, I need a product to clean the flywheel and pressure plate and perhaps the clutch disc.  I am thinking of using brake cleaner. 

Lauran 

[pbf777]

     

the plugs are not threaded.   The plug is in the block above the cam plug was not installed far enough into the block so the "dome" part of the plug has been worn away by the block plate..........
Lauran 

     First, which "FE" engine block is this (you sure)?   Some FE's  have one and some have two plugs inserted directly above the cam plug; the upper is to plug the main gallery of the "center oiler" configuration blocks, and the second down from the top, being just above the cam-plug, would be for the oil pressure by-pass valve (if equipped).

     And if this is a press-in , "cup-plug", the "dome" side should be to the inside (not including the actual cam bore plug), thereby not exposed as I understand in your description. 

     I have seen instances, since in the FE's the oil gallery termination and receiver for the plugs at the rear is on the the same plane as the bell housing mounting surface, when screw-in type plugs have been utilized and stand proud, and the incorrect separator plate, not demonstrating the relief punching, generally three or perhaps applications with just one, two or four also existed (Ford supplied with and without such), or the after-market perhaps such as yours, the plates if not modified as required are either bent with permanent impressions from the plug, or rather upon one realizing with the difficulty of assembly, instead of providing holes in the plate, they have ground the head of the plug off.     

     So?         

     Scott.

[1967 eight barrel]

I assume you're referencing the plug directly above the cam opening on the front of the block? The blocks designed for cup plugs are usually bored at least a half inch deep. If you can't use a punch and cant the plug enough to pull it with pliers you may have to drill it, run a screw into it and pull it with a claw hammer. When you replace it be sure it's not threaded.
Clean it thoroughly, use a small amount of JB weld all the way around the plug. Use a drift punch and dimple the center of the plug. Keep in mind that the cupped side of the plug goes toward the engine.  Remember, some blocks use both threaded and cup plugs.
                                                              -Keith

[RSOHC]

The number cast into the block are C4AE and 6015A.  I have two plugs at 12 o'clock above the Cam Plug and one plug at 6'oclock below the Cam Plug.  I do not have any drilled holes or plugs at 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock.  My question is whether or not the dome plugs should have a size of 7/16".

Thanks

Lauran

   

[pbf777]

  I have two plugs at 12 o'clock above the Cam Plug and one plug at 6'oclock below the Cam Plug.  I do not have any drilled holes or plugs at 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock.
Lauran   

      That would indicate a solid lifter block application as the "11 o'clock and 1 o'clock" lifter galleries are apparently not drilled.  The plug at 6 o'clock is generally a 7/16" diameter "cup-plug" and is the cross drilling passage required due to the misalignment of the vertical gallery drillings for the number five main saddle and cam bearing bore.  The upper plug at 12 o-clock is generally a 9/16" "cup-plug" and is the main oil gallery (center-oiler blocks), and generally both of these are press-in "cup-plugs", which as stated previously should exhibit the "dome" inward", and I don't believe as I recall exhibited any dimensional  nomenclature in the original O.E.M. assemblies.

      Now the lower plug, just above the camshaft bore at 12 o'clock is generally a "screw-in", 5/8" diameter, 18 thread per inch of interference profile (not N.P.T. threads), female 5/16" hex "Allen" type; intended to act as not only an oil seal but to locate and retain the oil pressure relief valve & spring device.         

      BTW As the C4AE-6015-A may lead one to believe the engine to be...................what FE engine is this, or is it suppose to be?         

     Scott.

[RSOHC]

The lower plug just above the camshaft bore at 12 o'clock looks to require a four sided key.  A 3/8 inch socket extension is a little too big.  I have ordered an 8 mm square socket key used elsewhere for oil drain plug removal tool which may or may not be of use. 

The engine block is a 427.

Lauran

[RSOHC]

What is a part number for the correct screw in 5/8 inch diameter, 18 threads per inch of interference profile, female 5/16 inch hex Allen type?  The one in the block has a radial crack and needs to be replaced.

I have found a kit Dorman 577-011 however the sizes are not given and the threaded plugs are described as pipe plugs.

The 7/16" and 9/16" cup plugs have been installed with the dome side outward rather than inward.  Do the 7/16" and 9/16" plugs need to be changed?

Lauran

[pbf777]

     A square female receptacale plug?  Don't remember that one, but then half the time I can't remember my name, the last guy working on it must have been a Chevy guy!        

     Note that there are several possible configurations of these galley plug scenarios thru the history of the FE production.  The previous as I outlined is only what I might expect to discover in that (C4AE) block, but other FE's may/will exhibit other components; such as the 6 o'clock plug being also a 9/16" cup-plug later in production, then screw-in 1/4" NPT plugs being used throughout also, the loss of the first up/second down @ 12 o'clock as the oil relief valve is discontinued, and of course the addition of the the lifter oil galleries and resultant plugs both press-in and screw in, and then there's the "side-oiler" blocks         

     For a replacement plug, try Precision Oil Pumps, they offer a relief valve kit which includes the plug, or perhaps solely the plug could be had?       

     And, it would appear the cup-plugs have been inserted backwards (sounds more & more like a chevy guy  ), and although there are plugs that are engineered to be inserted as such (example: FE cam plug) most often the design is intended otherwise , as it is the pressure applied to the convex side of the plug that forces the perimeter into the receiver boring wall within the block casting (in this case) providing resistance against to the plug being displaced.                    

     So what do you think,.............do the plugs need to be changed?       

     Scott.

[RSOHC]

I have drilled the cup plug at 6 o'clock and when turning a #10 sheet metal screw into the hole the tip of the screw broke off.

What would be a stronger #10 screw?  Perhaps a structural screw?

Lauran

[RSOHC]

The upper plug at 12 o'clock has been removed .  It has a diameter of 0.56 inch and a thickness of 0.30 inch.  It is aluminum round stock.
The plug at 6 o'clock has been removed.  It has a diameter of 0.428 inch and a thickness of 0.30 inch.  It is aluminum round stock.
I have ordered and plug and pressure relief valve assembly for the lower plug at 12 o'clock.  I will see if the key for this plug is square or a hem an then continue with the removal process.



Lauran

[RSOHC]

New plugs were installed with the concave portion of the correct plugs facing out so that it can be seen with the plugs installed in the block.    The oil leak problem has been solved. 

Lauran

[pbf777]

     Yippee!     

     Scott.