Voltage regulators black or blue for 1966

[6s1640]

Hi all,

I am finding both black and blue non-AC voltage regulators for 1966 Mustang, part number C5AF-10316-A.  With AC is C5TF-10316-A.  Does the GT350 use the non-AC regulator and which color?

Thanks

Cory

[J_Speegle]

For judging either the black or blue typically with the silver printed C5AF gets a pass.

If you want a more exact answer would need to know what car or when the car in question was finished at San Jose - Don't want to assume that your asking about #1640

[GT350Lad]

Thanks Jeff, I remember the old forum has an extensive thread on this topic

[Bob Gaines]

Black with C5AF is by far the most typical. C5TF would typically be a replacement on a 66 GT350. FYI this same issue comes up through out the 67 model year too. I am not sure why the the seldom seen (relatively speaking) blue blue covers showed up until permanently changing over to blue in 1968.

[EdwardGT350]

have the concours correct ones improved reliability? i seem to remember they were iffy a few yrs ago.
which one is correct for late march /april build?

[Bob Gaines]

have the concours correct ones improved reliability? i seem to remember they were iffy a few yrs ago.
which one is correct for late march /april build?

There are some that have the correct body appearance and very accurate artwork on the stamp along with being made with solid state internals instead of the old style mechanical relay. The solid state internals are what the modern relays sold have and are more reliable.As I stated previously the black cover with the silver C5AF is by far the most typical.The blue covers will more often get a challenge.

[Bob Gaines]

I thought that I would mention that the C5TF marked heavy duty regulator was typically what you got when you bought one from your Ford dealer back in the day. The C5AF was not typically serviced. It was of no negative consequence for its use on non heavy duty applications so less inventory to keep on hand. This explains way you see the C5TF in some cases on a non heavy duty battery car(base 66 GT350). The same goes for the C8AF version. C8TF was all you could get. That is way you see all of the NOS C8TF and occasionally NOS C5TF regulators (relatively speaking) available for sale .Call me cynical but I suspect at least some NOS C5 and C8TF regulators have had their caps switched over the years to comply with a concours application.

[J_Speegle]

which one is correct for late march /april build?

Looking at unrestored cars around this same time period I believe your car would likely have been built with the black cover with the silver C5AF printing

[6s1640]

For judging either the black or blue typically with the silver printed C5AF gets a pass.

If you want a more exact answer would need to know what car or when the car in question was finished at San Jose - Don't want to assume that your asking about #1640

Hi Jeff, I am actually working on a couple of San Jose cars, but they are very near each other with February and April builds.

Thank you Jeff and Bob for your inputs.

Take care

Cory

[rkm]

Brant Halterman (Virginia Classic Mustangs) sells perfect black repros  with solid state internals. I have a small collection of dead originals but they don't age well.

[gt350hr]

   Cory ,
       Go with black and silver lettering . I've never seen an original car with a blue one.

[6s1640]

   Cory ,
       Go with black and silver lettering . I've never seen an original car with a blue one.

Hi Randy,  That is the plan.  Thank you

Cory

[EdwardGT350]

ive had a couple dash guages sporadically go dead(fuel and temp guages i believe). would this be due to a faulty regulator located on the grill support or the one located behind the dash?

[6s1640]

ive had a couple dash guages sporadically go dead(fuel and temp guages i believe). would this be due to a faulty regulator located on the grill support or the one located behind the dash?

I'd start with the dash regulator.

Cory

[DennyD]

Question regarding the cover on the voltage regulator. On the factory assembly line units, was the cover attached with rivets or flat head screws? I've seen both types. Thanks