engine paint

[kasearch@ix.netcom.com]

I have a 69 GT500 and need to know the CORRECT ford blue to paint the engine (rattle can), or the paint code for this.

[Coralsnake]

The color is Ford Corporate dark blue. Unfortunately, Ford did not have a specific code for repainting engines. So you are going to get a lot of opinions

[Bob Gaines]

If you are going with the rattle can route instead of a admittedly more expensive superior professional line paint like PPG then try the version that Plasticote offers in the Ford Dark Blue at your local auto parts store.

[CharlesTurner]

NPD sells spray can engine enamel matched to the original PPG code.  That's probably the best route to take if rattle can is the only option.

As Bob noted, a 2X paint (paint + hardener) will give much better results and be more resistant to conditions, including fluid leaks, etc...

[kingchief]

Mr. Turner, what is the best ratio for the paint to hardener?  Also, should any reducer [thinner] be used? 

All the best,

Steve

[CharlesTurner]

Mr. Turner, what is the best ratio for the paint to hardener?  Also, should any reducer [thinner] be used? 

All the best,

Steve

You'll need to refer to the spec sheet for the paint system being used.

[TLea]

Most formulas are 8:4:1 however I found if you use more reducer like 8:5:1 with the proper spraying techniques you can eliminate  the need for the unpredictable flatteners to get the right sheen

[Harris Speedster]

Lots of alternatives.
A true and tested 50 year old company makes an excellent hi temp paint, which is exacting in match.
Rattle can mist of hi heat sealer only for a mist ,

Its gloss from the can can be changed, but truthfully is spot on.
Meant to sit at least a week before engine is fired and heated.

Never seen a blister or peel on engines I & others have used his products on.
Bill Hirsch Company, NJ, know for Senior level concour products and on automobile with high point Invitational wins.

NO THINNING is necessary, BUT, If you want to thin, use a slow dry lacquer or a slow dry acrylic.
I found that a first coat of the paint with a touch of thinner gives a nice base over the rattle can sealer mist.

His code is 5670-6150>> check his site to be sure.

It is best to spray an engine in entirety, on a stand with no accessories that are to be left alum, natural, black or whatever.
Even though he and his family concentrated on pre war very high dollar cars, and some post war, his products are used by many.
Just saying,
John

[Bob Gaines]

Lots of alternatives.
A true and tested 50 year old company makes an excellent hi temp paint, which is exacting in match.
Rattle can mist of hi heat sealer only for a mist ,

Its gloss from the can can be changed, but truthfully is spot on.
Meant to sit at least a week before engine is fired and heated.

Never seen a blister or peel on engines I & others have used his products on.
Bill Hirsch Company, NJ, know for Senior level concour products and on automobile with high point Invitational wins.

NO THINNING is necessary, BUT, If you want to thin, use a slow dry lacquer or a slow dry acrylic.
I found that a first coat of the paint with a touch of thinner gives a nice base over the rattle can sealer mist.

His code is 5670-6150>> check his site to be sure.

It is best to spray an engine in entirety, on a stand with no accessories that are to be left alum, natural, black or whatever.
Even though he and his family concentrated on pre war very high dollar cars, and some post war, his products are used by many.
Just saying,
John

I hope it has changed. Last time I saw that product used on a Ford engine it was less then a exact match. Maybe it has change since I witnessed the color some 10 years ago .

[Bob Gaines]

The other highly endorsed engine paint is POR 15. That one is way off in shade compared to typical.

[Greg]

Watch this as it gives a great understanding of the paints.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/1805-get-it-right-ford-engine-paint

[Harris Speedster]

Bob,
Last time I used it>> maybe 5-6 years ago.
It was a very good match.
I had some valve covers, water pump and oil pan that were nice originals.
I polished them and then put paint dabs on to see for myself.
excellent match.

I have seen engine paints, many, change shades from heat after running them.
His paint did not change or flatten out., nor did gas or oil effect it

I just sprayed a 1957 supercharged F bird engine with his Ford Red, great products and match.
That is just me though.
john

[69mach351w]

I used the Plasticote engine paint #224 Ford dark blue 9 years ago on the 351w engine in my Mach 1 and have had "Zero" problems.

And yes, it is driven about 1500 miles a year.

[J_Speegle]

I used the Plasticote engine paint #224 Ford dark blue 9 years ago on the 351w engine in my Mach 1 and have had "Zero" problems.

Understand from a couple of other forums that may be out of production so some may want to find the last few cans and stash them for later.  Was likely going to be converted to water base also at some point   

[shelbymann1970]

NPD sells spray can engine enamel matched to the original PPG code.  That's probably the best route to take if rattle can is the only option.

As Bob noted, a 2X paint (paint + hardener) will give much better results and be more resistant to conditions, including fluid leaks, etc...

How well do those type of paints hold up on FE heads at the exhaust manifolds? I know some that only drive their car a short ways for fear of burning the paint off(anything farther they trailer it). Is there a specific  2 part paint that will withstand the head on FE heads? Gary