engine paint

[shelbymann1970]

Lots of alternatives.
A true and tested 50 year old company makes an excellent hi temp paint, which is exacting in match.
Rattle can mist of hi heat sealer only for a mist ,

Its gloss from the can can be changed, but truthfully is spot on.
Meant to sit at least a week before engine is fired and heated.

Never seen a blister or peel on engines I & others have used his products on.
Bill Hirsch Company, NJ, know for Senior level concour products and on automobile with high point Invitational wins.

NO THINNING is necessary, BUT, If you want to thin, use a slow dry lacquer or a slow dry acrylic.
I found that a first coat of the paint with a touch of thinner gives a nice base over the rattle can sealer mist.

His code is 5670-6150>> check his site to be sure.

It is best to spray an engine in entirety, on a stand with no accessories that are to be left alum, natural, black or whatever.
Even though he and his family concentrated on pre war very high dollar cars, and some post war, his products are used by many.
Just saying,
John

Thanks John. The only time I have seen/used Hirsch paint on a car was in 1998 on my friend's 69 428CJ Mach1 we were entering in Concours class at MCA in Dearborn. It was in a can and we brushed the heads near the manifolds as the paint had burned off there. So my question is you mentioned a high temp sealer which I assume you mean to spray first on the engine before applying the Hirsch paint? Who makes the hi temp sealer-Hirsch? I'm in the process of re-painting my SCJ in my Mach1 in the spring so am looking at paint options as well as my Shelby as the paint has been on it for 20 years now and I want to refresh it.  Thanks. Gary
Here is what they call hi-temp primer but it is 500  degrees. Is this what you use Royce?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/DC_DE1612?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpN-Kucv75gIVGY_ICh1epAuREAQYAyABEgKHzvD_BwE

Or is it more in line with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249340-Automotive-12-Ounce-Primer/dp/B003CT499O/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpN-Kucv75gIVGY_ICh1epAuREAAYASAAEgKYxvD_BwE&hvadid=381074662201&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9017001&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=8292751032413443830&hvtargid=aud-837858999240%3Akwd-302252163749&hydadcr=7661_9903419&keywords=duplicolor+high+temp+primer&qid=1578747210&sr=8-4

[Harris Speedster]

Your welcome !
Hirsch offers it too.
Quite smart, as any other sealer or primer will blister under heart and age.

His is formulated to get the job done right.
It is a rattle can , but again, just a light mist to cover, not a primer, but better.

Kind of reminds me of some old greenish sikens metal sealer from back when.
I hope all turns out well.
John

[Royce Peterson]

The Dupli - Color Ford Corporate Dark Blue has held up nicely on my 427. Painted it in 2006, the engine still looks good 13 years and 10K miles later. I used their high temp engine primer on the bare cast iron, then painted the blue over the primer as per the directions.

https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-73-FORD-CORPORATE-BLUE-ENGINE-PAINT-P3365.aspx

[1967 eight barrel]

I used the same product Royce did. My only complaint would be that it had discolored a bit on the FE exhaust flanges. Some of the professional automotive paint supply houses offer the paint in a spray can. The hardener doesn't mix until the can is shaken up and breaks the internal container.

                                                                                -Keith

[shelbymann1970]

The Dupli - Color Ford Corporate Dark Blue has held up nicely on my 427. Painted it in 2006, the engine still looks good 13 years and 10K miles later. I used their high temp engine primer on the bare cast iron, then painted the blue over the primer as per the directions.

https://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-73-FORD-CORPORATE-BLUE-ENGINE-PAINT-P3365.aspx

Thanks Royce and Keith. I have used duplicolor with great results on my 351 but have not used it on my 428 yet. A good friend of mine who has a 67 BB car will not drive it far for fear of burning the exhaust flanges. Any distance he trailers it. I want to drive my CJ as far as I like and want the paint to stay on the flange area of the heads after I paint them this spring. I have the duplicolor paint for a while now-just need to get the hi-temp primer. Gary

[69mach351w]

I used the Plasticote engine paint #224 Ford dark blue 9 years ago on the 351w engine in my Mach 1 and have had "Zero" problems.

Understand from a couple of other forums that may be out of production so some may want to find the last few cans and stash them for later.  Was likely going to be converted to water base also at some point   

Shouldn't matter, because if you buy 3-4 cans at the time to apply full coverage, then you want have to worry about color matching for several years because most likely will have "Zero" problems
Your turn Speegle, 'cause sure you'll want to get the last word

[J_Speegle]

I used the Plasticote engine paint #224 Ford dark blue 9 years ago on the 351w engine in my Mach 1 and have had "Zero" problems.

Understand from a couple of other forums that may be out of production so some may want to find the last few cans and stash them for later.  Was likely going to be converted to water base also at some point   

Shouldn't matter, because if you buy 3-4 cans at the time to apply full coverage, then you want have to worry about color matching for several years because most likely will have "Zero" problems ...............

Was only thinking of the people who may want to use it on an upcoming project in their future and don't currently have any. Once the available stock is gone its likely gone for good.  Not sure why thinking of others and trying to help gets such a response Sure others understand but thanks for giving me the opportunity to clarify 

[1967 eight barrel]

I used the 1621 Ford Old Blue. It was much closer to the OE shades that I had looked at Vs. the 1621 Ford Dark Blue. It's too dark. I used the high temp clear gloss over the blue. I personally like the high gloss and the easy clean up in the event of a valve cover gasket leak, or doing something stupid like I did when the cat decided to jump up and crawl over my back causing me to dump a half quart of Brad Penn across the valve covers and intake.
In hind sight I wish I'd shot it with the spray gun instead of spray can. The Dupli-Color is only rated to 500 degrees.  The flanges without a doubt exceed 500 degrees. One of the best things you can do is make sure who ever does the machine work gets the surface perfectly clean and prep work and a spotless application surface will absolutely have an effect on the finished product.
My headers glowed cherry red during the cam break in when I replaced the engine.  It scared the hell out of me and also slightly discolored the chrome jet hot coating on them. The first time I'd ever seen them get that hot.
Anyway, I will abstain from hostility. We all have experiences with products, and of course they may vary based on preparation, cleanliness, product age, etc.
Hard-lining here doesn't help anyone or anything. No one knows everything. I base my responses in personal experience, not a need to comment on every thread. I am one of he few who has disassembled every nut and blot and reassembled their vehicle.  The only things I didn't do was the exterior paint, differential and machine operations on the engine components. 
                                                                                                                            -Keith
                       

[TOBKOB]

Your turn Speegle, 'cause sure you'll want to get the last word

   And always a good word...

TOB

[1967 eight barrel]

Your turn Speegle, 'cause sure you'll want to get the last word

   And always a good word...

TOB

No arse kissing now.

[vtgt500]

I may have suggested this before as the question seems to come up often.

My firm designs and builds precision machine tools that use chlorinated, cutting oil.  Chip pan and guards are impacted by blue, hot, steel chips.  Few paint finishes will hold up.  Sherwim Williams makes a product specific to such applications.  Used with the recommended, self-etching primer has amazing mechanical adhesion.  Will not chip even with modest hammer strikes.  Will not stain from oil and solvents.

Have used for 30+ years on my engines.  The exhaust flanges on my CJ heads are relatively unblemished and rust free.  Can be ordered by RAL color specs.  Be sure to use a good respirator.

https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/content/sherwin-williams/pcg/industrial-sw-com/na/us/en/general-industrial/catalog/product/products-by-industry.11543145/polane-b-polyurethane-enamel.9197902.html

[TOBKOB]

I don't know if this pertains to the Ford Blue paint but this discussion is currently on a Model A site ...

Re: Motor Paint color ?
From Brattons on last Fridays Phone call, They can not get it any more from the Co. that made it for them and others because of a Hurricane, as all mixtures to make it were lost.. And that was there supplier, Bill Hirsch..

TOB

[2112]

I may have suggested this before as the question seems to come up often.

My firm designs and builds precision machine tools that use chlorinated, cutting oil.  Chip pan and guards are impacted by blue, hot, steel chips.  Few paint finishes will hold up.  Sherwim Williams makes a product specific to such applications.  Used with the recommended, self-etching primer has amazing mechanical adhesion.  Will not chip even with modest hammer strikes.  Will not stain from oil and solvents.

Have used for 30+ years on my engines.  The exhaust flanges on my CJ heads are relatively unblemished and rust free.  Can be ordered by RAL color specs.  Be sure to use a good respirator.

https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/content/sherwin-williams/pcg/industrial-sw-com/na/us/en/general-industrial/catalog/product/products-by-industry.11543145/polane-b-polyurethane-enamel.9197902.html

How is the Gloss? Are there flattening agents if necessary?

Hopefully available in quarts too.

[vtgt500]

How is the Gloss? Are there flattening agents if necessary?

Hopefully available in quarts too.
[/quote]

May be available in quarts.  We only use gallons.  The broad availability of RAL codes covers flat, satin, semi gloss and full gloss.  Is a 3-part system of paint, catalyst and reducer.

[2112]

Thanks