GT500 Starter Motor Replacement

[charlie D]

My starter is tired. It is the original starter. I have checked and cleaned the connections, battery is good. Turns engine over slow on initial start and even slower on a hot start. I have headers on and they cleared the stock starter. My car is a C6 automatic. Suppliers list several aftermarket high torque starters and "improved" stock starters that are less prone to heat sink. Have you replaced your starter and what advice do you have? Thanks as always.
Charlie D

[Bob Gaines]

My starter is tired. It is the original starter. I have checked and cleaned the connections, battery is good. Turns engine over slow on initial start and even slower on a hot start. I have headers on and they cleared the stock starter. My car is a C6 automatic. Suppliers list several aftermarket high torque starters and "improved" stock starters that are less prone to heat sink. Have you replaced your starter and what advice do you have? Thanks as always.
Charlie D

The gear reduced drive after market starter will solve the problem you describe easily especially when the engine is hot. Be prepared for it to sound different from what you are used to. The gear reduced starters are typically designed for multiple applications so you will have to make a adjustment on how the motor is oriented in relation to the head so to better clear headers etc. Even if you choose to for go directions for adjustment like I am prone to do   the adjustment is easy to do.

[TedS]

My starter is tired. It is the original starter. I have checked and cleaned the connections, battery is good. Turns engine over slow on initial start and even slower on a hot start. I have headers on and they cleared the stock starter. My car is a C6 automatic. Suppliers list several aftermarket high torque starters and "improved" stock starters that are less prone to heat sink. Have you replaced your starter and what advice do you have? Thanks as always.
Charlie D

I have a "driver" GT500KR that I was bringing out of a long sleep. Like yours, the starter was also old and dragging even without the heat-sink issue. Since I wasn't particularly interested in being concours correct I went with a RobbMc. If the next guy wants concours correctness its easy enough to change. The RobbMc being smaller, its a lot easier to get to the top bolt. It took less time to install the new one than remove the stock one. Went in fine and has worked perfectly. RobbMc will recommend #2 battery cables so I tossed out the factory cables and went with welding cable. All these changes are easily reversed down the road. I'm not pushing the RobbMc but it works for me. I can't address header clearance since I have stock manifolds.

In any case, if your existing starter is truly original, and you replace it, save the old one.

https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/starter_home.html

Best of luck
Ted

[eric lipper]

I put a RobbMc in mine.  It works great.

[Cobrask8]

Also +1 on the gear unit.

While I have a big HP 331 in my Cobra, a stock style starter would simply not start the car, especially when hot. Gear unit in, spins every time.

Since this is a non-visible item, do the swap for better reliability and driving pleasure.

AS WELL.....

Think very seriously about your battery cables and the "Grounding Triangle". If you are using the concours tiny cables, they will also hinder starting. They are way too small for a hot big block. On my 69 428 SCJ, I used larger welding cable (1/0), and simply gave up on looking stock. But, it spun the motor every time. Got red heat shrink to mark it.

Also make sure there is a proper and heavy ground from the engine block to the frame. That is crucial. So many take off the flimsy braided cable at the back of the motor. Otherwise, you'll never have a happy charging system

[Bob Gaines]

The larger cables are a big help when using a stock starter or the gear reduced starters. If you are using one of the gear reduced starters (small diameter starters with piggyback solenoid) you can get by with the stock factory battery cables in case you are concerned about the stock look from the engine compartment side . The gear reduced starters do not need the draw like the stock starters do because of the gear reduction. It is important you make sure connections are clean ,tight,including the one between the head and the firewall regardless if stock battery cables or larger diameter custom cables.

[TedS]

Bob G is correct, the geared units do have a little different sound but I found with the RobbMc it was not significant, at least to me. I think stock Mopar starters are more noticeable with a "gear sound". In my case, all is forgiven when car cranks every time. The RobbMc I received was clocked correctly when I got it so no adjustment was required. Again, I'm not pushing RobbMc but just passing along my experience.

Specifically for BB Fords: http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/fordat_starter.html

Ted

[1967 eight barrel]

The RobbMC starters are usually Toyota based units. They are of good quality. I have only heard of a few people having issues with Drive/Bendix.
Most on the FE power forum use them primarily due to high compression. My factory heavy-duty drug with the 11:4 compression.
The Marty reproduction battery cables tended to get quite warm.
                                                                                                 -Keith

[charlie D]

Thanks for the responses. I ordered a RobbMc starter. Will let you know the results when install is complete.
Charlie D

[JWH]

Can anyone help with where to buy the larger cables?
Thanks

[1967 eight barrel]

Can anyone help with where to buy the larger cables?
Thanks

https://www.batterycablesusa.com/00-gauge-battery-cable-with-ends-2-0-awg?preSelOpt=85,108,112&gclid=CjwKCAiAyeTxBRBvEiwAuM8dnTyeDqsET_xhJvHDsKzBdBwicgZrL1L4o0lPPhoaB0Gbr9cwGdqujxoC2b4QAvD_BwE

[Tor]

Mansfield Mustang sells heavy dutu cables with correct marking (4 gauge),original has 6 gauge i belive.

http://mansfieldmustang.com/EngineElectrical.html

Tor

[gt350hr]

   You might find that the bushing in the aluminum housing portion is worn and sloppy. This allows the armature to contact ( drag) on the coils in the case , especially when hot. There is a "modern" Ford style PMG starter out now that fits the FE or you could use a 302 (5.0) version and only use two attaching bolts.
   Randy

[Cobrask8]

Can anyone help with where to buy the larger cables?
Thanks

At the time, I had access to welding cable and terminal ends, so I made my own. Even hot-solder dipped so no corrosion!

[2112]

   You might find that the bushing in the aluminum housing portion is worn and sloppy. This allows the armature to contact ( drag) on the coils in the case , especially when hot. There is a "modern" Ford style PMG starter out now that fits the FE or you could use a 302 (5.0) version and only use two attaching bolts.
   Randy

https://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/08/ministarter/

https://www.paperformance.com/mini-pmgr-starter-1881/