KR Ram air chamber rivet question?

[proford1]

AMK makes a rivet for the ram air chamber to fasten to the hood, they are a little pricey but that ok, the problem is they will rent you the rivet gun (2000.00 deposit and 150.00 rental fee) is this the only option?  just wondering what others did.  thanks Mike

[Coralsnake]

Thats pretty much the option, and you have to play with the air pressure.

[proford1]

what type of bonding agent did you use to secure the ram air chamber?

[Coralsnake]

I dont know the name, but its the same product Corvette guyx use to bond panels, Its a red orange color

[gt350bp]

There are some other fasteners that are similar called Bulb-Tite rivets. (Check Triangle Fastener Co. on-line catalog)

These fasteners are typically used by Pre-engineered steel building installers so you might be able to rent or borrow (couple of six packs) the tool. They may also have the tool that is used for the original type fasteners from AMK as I believe these were used for fiberglass roof sheeting / corrugated skylight sheets?

Local Triangle Fastener office may also rent the tool? Just some options that I pursued with my KR ram air chamber.

Don
gt350bp

[GT350AUS]

Only use the correct AMK rivets and hire the gun.

I'm in Australia and had to buy two sets of rivets as we couldn't get the correct gun that AMK has so it was trial and error. 

You're restoring a KR and it needs to be done right.

[TLea]

I wrote an article on how to do it. It's on concours mustang forum

[GT350AUS]

I wrote an article on how to do it. It's on concours mustang forum

Yes Tim ,you did and the article was a great help when I did mine.

[gt350bp]

Fairly sure the Bulb-Tite rivet gun will work with the AMK fasteners. Did some further research and the Bulb-Tite rivets are used not only for PEMB, but also in the trailer building industry.

 

[shelbydoug]

Fairly sure the Bulb-Tite rivet gun will work with the AMK fasteners. Did some further research and the Bulb-Tite rivets are used not only for PEMB, but also in the trailer building industry.

Tim Lea did a whole thread on this subject and if memory serves said he thinks he bought the last of the red adhesive?

If you want an accurate historical restoration, then there is no choice of method but there are other alternatives. Ask him about the red adhesive. It really seems to be an epoxy that you kind of mix with a trowel?


I used a KR ducting on my GT350. I used nut certs and black stainless button head screws. You need to look closely to see that they are not rivets.

As far as the adhesive goes, I found that silicone caulking when cured is an adequate adhesive. The key is that the duct is somewhat flexible and that you need to keep it clamped to the bottom of the hood until the caulking cures.

It's easier if the hood is upside down and you just put weights on it. The silicone will remain flexible and not hard like the red epoxy gets.


The method that Tim determined matches the factory method is kind of an artistic endeavor and seems simple but to do just one hood and get it right the first time, good luck.

[proford1]

I looked on concourse mustangs site and didnt find the article i messaged TLea to see if he can send me a link.

Mike

[Coralsnake]

http://concoursmustang.com/speegle/65-70%20Shelby/Article%20-%20Master%20-%20Bonding%20KR%20Plenum%20to%20Hood.pdf

[shelbydoug]

If you are starting with your own original KR hood, the ducting should fit with no issues. If you are starting with an original non-KR hood you are going to need to trim the inlets on the hood to fit the ducting in the front corners.

That's the article and dat's the man his self doing the duct. I think he said he had someone he borrowed the gun from initially?

[proford1]

Thanks everyone, next question did you guys just satin black epoxy the the air chamber? and yes its the original chamber and hood so all holes line up fine.

Mike

[shelbydoug]

I painted mine satin black but the originals seem to be black gel coat. I asked Tim that but he didn't answer.