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Dual exhaust recommendations - 67 K code

Started by Horsman, February 24, 2020, 04:50:54 PM

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Horsman

My 67 K-code's exhaust was removed years ago for drag racing with open headers. My original exhaust hangers are still intact and look brand new, so I would like to used them moving forward with a new dual system using the GT splitter tips. I am not doing a concours restoration, prefer not using the transverse muffler setup and would like to have something that does not look like I went to the local muffler shop with cheesy clamps/hangers. Several vendors offer dual kits, just would like some real first hand experience with what you guys run on your cars. I really like the Arvinode sound but it's my understanding that kit is not available for a 1967, please correct me if I am wrong. Will a 2 1/4" H pipe bolt up to the original HiPo manifolds?

Thanks for all the help and advice.

s2ms

I had a complete custom 2.5" system built for my 66 by a local shop using most of the original hangers and repop clamps, they had to use a couple of their hangers but I'm fine with that. Been very satisfied with it and would do it again in a heartbeat for a driver.
Dave - 6S1757

Bob Gaines

Quote from: s2ms on February 24, 2020, 05:06:12 PM
I had a complete custom 2.5" system built for my 66 by a local shop using most of the original hangers and repop clamps, they had to use a couple of their hangers but I'm fine with that. Been very satisfied with it and would do it again in a heartbeat for a driver.
Based on your post do what is suggested here. Have them make up a H pipe with a equalizer crossover like factory with a couple bullet glasspacks which will look more factory or what ever out to your tips. I would not use a ready made after market kit . They are notorious for not fitting unless it is a fuller factory type system.. 
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

GT350Lad

#3
I agree with Bob, I looked at all the options and I think the Fuller is an amazing piece of work
There is a few threads on this topic in you search here and concours forum

Cheers

6S373
6S1276

shelbydoug

You may want to consider using 69-70 351w cast iron exhaust manifolds. They are the same configuration as the K code manifolds but are larger in capacity.

They will bolt up to a 2-1/2" head pipe. 2-1/4, no problem.

They are going to be a lot cheaper then the K manifolds as well.

I ran these for a while breaking in a new engine. They are super quiet. They just don't flow like headers do. Neither do the K codes.
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

Horsman

Thanks for the suggestions.

I do plan on using my original manifolds, from my understanding they will accept a 2 1/4" H-pipe, please correct me if I am wrong.

Regarding the bullet style mufflers, where is good place to source those style, most I see are the standard square looking type?

shelbydoug

Quote from: Horsman on February 25, 2020, 09:06:16 AM
Thanks for the suggestions.

I do plan on using my original manifolds, from my understanding they will accept a 2 1/4" H-pipe, please correct me if I am wrong.

Regarding the bullet style mufflers, where is good place to source those style, most I see are the standard square looking type?

I seem to remember Bob Gaines commenting on those? I think someone is reproducing them? They are the resonators built into the original factory exhausts.
I don't remember who had them. Coralsnake may know a source also?
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

mlplunkett

I'm curious if the CI manifolds used on the 68 428CJ are any better from a flow standpoint than the 67 428 manifold. I assume they would fit OK.
67 GT500 tribute under construction
65 R-model tribute under construction

shelbydoug

Yes they are. They are bigger bore and hold more volume. I think the difference on a dyno was 35 hp?
By comparison, tube headers were 100hp.
68 GT350 Lives Matter!

Bob Gaines

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 24, 2020, 07:13:32 PM
Quote from: s2ms on February 24, 2020, 05:06:12 PM
I had a complete custom 2.5" system built for my 66 by a local shop using most of the original hangers and repop clamps, they had to use a couple of their hangers but I'm fine with that. Been very satisfied with it and would do it again in a heartbeat for a driver.
Based on your post do what is suggested here. Have them make up a H pipe with a equalizer crossover like factory with a couple bullet glasspacks which will look more factory or what ever out to your tips. I would not use a ready made after market kit . They are notorious for not fitting unless it is a fuller factory type system.
For base line information on what size resonator /glass pack,the factory glass pack type resonator is approximately 23 inches from the end of the transition where the 2",2.4",2.5" pipe welds to the resonator /glass pack. You would probably want longer for 2.5 inch pipe because that will be a lot louder especially without the transverse .
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Horsman

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 25, 2020, 06:25:54 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 24, 2020, 07:13:32 PM
Quote from: s2ms on February 24, 2020, 05:06:12 PM
I had a complete custom 2.5" system built for my 66 by a local shop using most of the original hangers and repop clamps, they had to use a couple of their hangers but I'm fine with that. Been very satisfied with it and would do it again in a heartbeat for a driver.
Based on your post do what is suggested here. Have them make up a H pipe with a equalizer crossover like factory with a couple bullet glasspacks which will look more factory or what ever out to your tips. I would not use a ready made after market kit . They are notorious for not fitting unless it is a fuller factory type system.
For base line information on what size resonator /glass pack,the factory glass pack type resonator is approximately 23 inches from the end of the transition where the 2",2.4",2.5" pipe welds to the resonator /glass pack. You would probably want longer for 2.5 inch pipe because that will be a lot louder especially without the transverse .

Thanks for the great information Bob.  My exhaust builder has the aluminized resonator / glass pack to use, I feel this is the best route for a nice driver.

Bob Gaines

#11
Quote from: Horsman on February 26, 2020, 04:09:34 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 25, 2020, 06:25:54 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 24, 2020, 07:13:32 PM
Quote from: s2ms on February 24, 2020, 05:06:12 PM
I had a complete custom 2.5" system built for my 66 by a local shop using most of the original hangers and repop clamps, they had to use a couple of their hangers but I'm fine with that. Been very satisfied with it and would do it again in a heartbeat for a driver.
Based on your post do what is suggested here. Have them make up a H pipe with a equalizer crossover like factory with a couple bullet glasspacks which will look more factory or what ever out to your tips. I would not use a ready made after market kit . They are notorious for not fitting unless it is a fuller factory type system.
For base line information on what size resonator /glass pack,the factory glass pack type resonator is approximately 23 inches from the end of the transition where the 2",2.4",2.5" pipe welds to the resonator /glass pack. You would probably want longer for 2.5 inch pipe because that will be a lot louder especially without the transverse .

Thanks for the great information Bob.  My exhaust builder has the aluminized resonator / glass pack to use, I feel this is the best route for a nice driver.
You may have already considered this but just in case you haven't or for those reading,for a exhaust like this I would consider aluminized pipe or better yet the pipe with high carbon content. Not stainless pipe but pipe your exhaust people can get with the high carbon content. The high cabon content will not rust and will not look as shiny as stainless.  It looks more like regular steel pipe compared to the aluminized pipe. Ether way I would do ether over plain steel that will flash rust quickly . Ether one is more user and maintenance friendly whether a nice driver or show car.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

s2ms

Another thing I did for my 66 you may want to consider is to flange the rear H-pipe tubes, just ahead of the mufflers in my case. If you want to work on, or pull the tranny, the H-pipe can then be completely dropped in minutes making access much easier.
Dave - 6S1757

roddster

  I used to run a Midas Muffler shop in the long ago.  I am not aware that a 2.25 pipe with fit to the 289 Hipo exhaust manifolds.  So, it will be 2.0 right there, then the 2.25 pipe can be fitted/welded about 6 inches out of the manifold.
  Tailpipes: not impossible but really difficult to route past the rear axle, shocks, gas tank with anything larger than 2.25.

  For totally correct looking 67 289 hipo exhaust in the Stock/factory configuration the Scott Fuller stuff is the best.

Horsman

I love the Fuller products, would use if doing a concours restoration, but since this will be a fun driver its not worth the investment in my opinion.

My exhaust guy does have the good aluminized products, Scott F. did sell me some OEM hangers so I can make this system look stock appearing as possible using a tube style resonator/muffler without the transverse setup.

I appreciate all the great advise guys, looking forward to getting this car back on road after 40 plus years.