Suitable 428 bell housing

[The Going Thing]

The centrifugal weights won't clear.  I have the correct Shelby housing. There is actually a warning in the box. I called CF to clarify before installation.

[Bob Gaines]

It's not just the 11" clutch. It's what you can get in the bellhousing.  I love the Centerforce dual friction I have. Relatively light pedal pressure, great engagement and doesn't slip with almost 600 HP and 500LB of torque.  It's a great street clutch that won't kill your linkage.
You can use the 66-67 style or 68-70 style. The fork is readily available and you won't have any funky geometry issues.

Just for a point of clarification given it doesn't really matter ether way in this instance given function over originality, the 68-70 style fork is readily available and also in reproduction .The 66-67 fork is not ether way.

[The Going Thing]

Bob's correct. The good news is if you wind up with the 66-7 bellhousing you can get the conversion to use the later style fork for the early bellhousing.

[The Going Thing]

There is one for sale. Here is the info from the add from the other forum. This is DIRT cheap.

I have  one  of the big ones  for a car/ 4 speed with the big Z on the back.  Where are you located?  Asking $400 plus the ride.

Larry   in Denver  (720)  8393477

[mlplunkett]

Left voicemail and sent text. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for the responses and the heads up on the add. To answer a few of the comments, I'm building a 428 (stroker internals) so I'm trying to get my hands on all the heavy duty 428 stuff I can find/afford. I have the correct balancer, intake, PS cooler, oil cooler, and fuel pump. Drew has built a couple of replica carbs and I'm still looking for the other pulleys and brackets. Should look pretty accurate. Need find a good substitute for the original radiator for an AC car and need to find a good kit to add AC to a non AC car. I hae a 9" rear axle built so I probably won't go to the expense of a SPEC rear end.

[1967 eight barrel]

I am adding A/C to my Shelby. I hunted down all the factory components. You seem to be going to a lot of trouble to make it look as factory. You would be wasting your time once you bought one of the "kits" out there because it will all be for moot.
The dash center vent isn't reproduced. There is a poor quality plastic center vent unit that doesn't match the dash. You also need a different array of pulleys and mounting brackets. All the underhood A/C parts are reproduced with the exception of the vacuum tree for the manifold, and the original type heater valve, brackets for the compressor, both idlers and the crank pulley.
If you're building with a particular goal in mind you need a well laid out plan. You don't want to do this one as an afterthought.  It's a relatively involved job that requires a lot of forethought and a bit of capital. It's not a cheap project and will cost well over the aftermarket kit by the time you restore the components you dig up. The only reason I went to the extremes I did is because I have a real car, and If I'm going to make a change of that significance I wanted it to look as if It came that way.
Just some advice from someone who is actually doing what you're asking about, not just throwing their two cents in.

                                                                 Kindest Regards, Keith

[mlplunkett]

I knew that the AC would be the hardest part from the get go. Since you're going through it with an original car you are probably way ahead of me chasing down the part numbers for the pulleys and brackets so I would very much appreciate you passing that on to me. Like I said previously, I am happy to substitute an incorrect part number as long as it approximates the original appearance so hopefully that will make my road a little easier than yours. What are you doing about the radiator?

[The Going Thing]

I certainly can and will provide the engineering numbers from the pulleys and brackets.  I am still trying to ascertain from someone in the know about the clutch. I have a 6.5" and the information shows it should be 6.75. There shouldn't be an issue if the belt grooves are the same.

[mlplunkett]

Spoke with Larry and closed the deal on the bellhousing. Forgot to say earlier that I also have the correct dual point distributor that I'll send to Faron for rebuild (pertronix internals) so I'm closing in on making the motor look correct. Thanks for the help guys.

[The Going Thing]

Doug, what you failed to take into account is weights pull the fingers aft in the housing at RPM.  Centerforce had enough issue with it that is TELLS you not to use other style housing and to return the clutch if you do.  There's a nice pretty note from them that advises you, liability and warranty disclaimer as well for not heeding the instructions.
Like most 67 FE car owners the disc and cover was 12" from Ford.   I changed to the Aluminum flywheel with the CF Dual Friction.

[shelbydoug]

I've got a Centerforce Dual Friction and I would say that the assembly height is significantly less then the Long BUT I would agree that the C60A bell is the way to go.

I would advise any "clone" builders thusly, "if you want to talk the talk, walk the walk". Stop complaining about how expensive it is to make your counterfeit car or build something else.

[The Going Thing]

I have seen three of the bellhousings for sale in recent history. They are priced in between 699.00 and 899.00.  I found the add from the other forum for 400.00. I should have bought it for an Ebay listing.   It's expensive to replace damaged or missing items for real cars.  A lot of FE cars wound up with small blocks after their owners blew them up or had installed scatter shields in the vehicles.

As for the dual friction clutch, there are at least three threads on the cover changes that occurred about five years ago and that they don't fit the non-hump housings in the old FE forum alone and the warning is also right on the CF website.

[JWH]

Here is a picture of the C5TA bell housing on the left and the C6OA bell housing on the right. Notice the "hump" on the C6OA housing and also that the area that houses the nose of the starter is shaped different and a little taller.
Jeff

[JWH]

Looking at the inside of the bellhousing, you can clearly see the hump that allows for better clutch clearance as stated in the posts above. The C6OA housing is the one with the clutch fork in place.

[The Going Thing]

Doug: CF changed the hat on the DF assembly about four years ago. That may account for the change. The new one is significantly taller and it seems to be at the outer edges.