68 GT500 Engine details and installation.

[Milo]

LOL.

What struck me is how low you got the front end by resting the LCA's on blocks. Does leaving the wheels on, tires on the ground give up too much in the clearance department?

Thanks for everything!

  I got this tip from the VMF: you can also jack the rear of the car way up due to the extreme angle nessary to put the big block engine in.

I guess nobody looks at pictures anymore

[Royce Peterson]

+1 the booster is not in the way of anything but the valve cover is totally in the way of lots of things. I would remove both valve covers.

I think I would install booster first with out M/C then remove the tall wide 68 Shelby LH valve cover before engine drop.

[Royce Peterson]

Also you will have to remove the slave cylinder to get it in there. Or disconnect the idler arm and then disconnect the slave cylinder from the frame bracket so the entire tie rod assembly can be dropped down enough to clear.

[The Troll Free Zone]

Also you will have to remove the slave cylinder to get it in there. Or disconnect the idler arm and then disconnect the slave cylinder from the frame bracket so the entire tie rod assembly can be dropped down enough to clear.

No you don't... 

[Wedgeman]

How correct are the engine bay photos compared to a 67 ??

[Bob Gaines]

How correct are the engine bay photos compared to a 67 ??

Very close but with a few exceptions. If you copied them you would have more rights then wrongs. The problem is knowing the right for 67 's  aspect.

[shelbydoug]

How correct are the engine bay photos compared to a 67 ??

Very close but with a few exceptions. If you copied them you would have more rights then wrongs. The problem is knowing the right for 67 's  aspect.

Different enough but you'd need to know the difference (and date) and whether or not you will see it when the engine is in.

[shelbydoug]

I'm going to try the angle deal with the headers. Never even thought that could happen. I bought a set of used Hookers, with all the dimpling done to save time.

I can't admit that Keith is crazier then me so I'm going to have the courage to try it with the transmission attached? Let's see? How much damage can I do in one swipe now? 

Keith? Why can't the accessories be attached? The angle is too steep and the alternator will hit the shock towers?

[Special Ed]

I would leave front sway bar off until engine is dropped for fear of oil pan and dampner hitting it and paint steering gearbox box top black out before engine drop especially on a big block.

[The Going Thing]

You just have to drop the idler arm from the frame with HOOKER long tube headers ( 6114). No need to do anything more than the two bolts on the idler and turning the wheel slightly. Factory exhaust manifolds are much easier to deal with installation wise and doesn't require the aforementioned step.

[Royce Peterson]

Good call. I had to remove the sway bar while installing a 428 in a '67 last week because the damper was hitting it.

I would leave front sway bar off until engine is dropped for fear of oil pan and dampner hitting it and paint steering gearbox box top black out before engine drop especially on a big block.

[8T03S1425]

The bypass hose was a special thicker wall high pressure type hose not a piece of heater hose like I have seen many people use that ends up swelling up from the heat and water pressure.

Is the thicker wall bypass hose available, and if so, where can I get it? I've checked with all the typical Mustang & Shelby parts distributors and see no special listing for that item.

Steve

[8T03S1425]

The bypass hose was a special thicker wall high pressure type hose not a piece of heater hose like I have seen many people use that ends up swelling up from the heat and water pressure.

Is the thicker wall bypass hose available, and if so, where can I get it? I've checked with all the typical Mustang & Shelby parts distributors and see no special listing for that item.

Steve

I'm getting ready to reinstall my intake and will likely use a section of new heater hose. It's worked for me in the past, although I noticed it bulging after long rides in the summer. I had no idea that a special hose was used there until I read Ed's post, pointing it out, and the reasoning it was specified by Ford. I'm hoping that it might be available, considering the lengths some go through to reproduce unique parts. It's not so easy to replace after the engine is reassembled.

Steve

[Coralsnake]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1969-FORD-MUSTANG-BOSS-429-WATERPUMP-TO-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-BYPASS-HOSE-NEW-OEM-/142275954946

[Coralsnake]

Better

https://www.ebay.com/p/1511214444?ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-53200-19255-0%252F1%253Ficep_ff3%253D2%2526pub%253D5574933636%2526toolid%253D10001%2526campid%253D5337487965%2526customid%253D%2526mpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww%25252Eebay%25252Ecom%25252Fp%25252F1511214444%2526srcrot%253D711-53200-19255-0%2526rvr_id%253D2468082404568%2526rvr_ts%253Da4ca104d1720ad3917932172ff85f415