'67 GT500 Torque Spec for Intake Manifold Bolts

[JWH]

> what is the correct torque spec for the intake manifold bolts with the stock aluminum GT500 intake? I see 32-35 ft/lb in the shop manual and assume that is for cast iron intakes. Is that correct for the aluminum intake also? 

> do I need to put sealer on the threads of the intake manifold bolts?

Thanks
Jeff

[The Going Thing]

32-35 LB is correct. Make sure you have your flat washer on the bolts. I do them in two increments. 16lb and again at 16lb. Are you installing the intake?
There is a lot of other information I can share so you don't have it pulling oil or leaking air.

[JWH]

Yes. I will install. Thanks for the information on the torque specs for the aluminum intake.

Here is what I have done previously on an intake install and it worked well:
> I ditched the cork end gaskets and applied a thick bead of Permatex Ultra Gray
> I applied Ultra Gray around the water jacket port. I smeared the Ultra Gray on both sides of the gaskets. I only applied around the water jacket port and no where else on the side gaskets.
> I applied a dab of A.R.P thread sealer to each of the bolts
> I installed guide studs so when lowering the intake into place, it is positioned correctly
> I dropped in the distributor after positioning the intake just to make sure things were lined up properly
> I torqued in the pattern shown in the Ford shop manual

Any tips are most welcome!     

[Corey Bowcutt]

The Going Thing, doing it in two steps is a great idea but I presume you mean 16 ft-Lbs first time and 32 ft-lbs the second time.  If you do 16 both times it will only be torqued to 16.  It is not additive.  The torque wrench does not torque to 16 lbs over previous torque.

[JWH]

I knew where TGT was going with torquing in two rounds - the first round with the torque wrench set to 16 ft-lb and the second round with the torque wrench set to 32 ft-lb, but excellent clarification Corey.

[JWH]

For anyone lacking a shop manual, here is a link showing the proper sequence to tighten the intake manifold bolts (scroll to the bottom of the page on the link). 

http://www.gtsparkplugs.com/BBF-Intake-Torque-Sequence.html

[The Going Thing]

Yes, Corey. Split into two increments with the final at 32lbs total. You also ALWAYS insert the distributor to make sure it doesn't bind and will seat. I don't use the Permatex gray, I use the Ford TA31 recommended by Barry Robotnic and Blair Patrick. It was designed for the Ford Diesel and it is very oil resistant and sets up quickly.  Because of the leak-prone FE intakes I also use a light smear of the same sealer around the intake ports on both sides. They siphon oil if they're leaking. It pulls it into the intake ports.  Be sure to cut the protrusion at the mating point of the intake and head if it sticks up where the valve cover rail is. and it doesn't hurt to smear a little sealer at the top of the joint at the valve cover rail.

[shelbydoug]

The first intake manifold that I ever did, in 1850, before they invented aluminum, I read an article in Hot Rod on how to install an intake manifold.

The Tech was Ollie Morris (so you know I'm not exaggerating on the date) and he said that if you use a 6" box wrench, and tighten the bolts as much as you can with it, they will be at 32.

Now this wasn't on a rare and "beautiful" C7ZX in take so take that with a caution. Torque wrenches are so cheap today that you can get one in Harbor Freight for the cost of a 4 for 4 at Wendy's.

The only thing that I would suggest is don't use just standard flat washers, use double thick stainless washers. If you break that then you are just a gorilla but you might get lucky and find you are the missing link and make a lot of money out of the situation?

[roddster]

  I have found that retorquing aluminum intakes the next day gets a little extra movement to the bolts.

[The Going Thing]

Doug: The AMK 1967 Shelby kit does come with a thicker than usual washer.  I think part of the issue is installing them without any washers.
I even used a little TA31 sealer on them this last time.  The spot-faced areas seem to get cracks in them when over-torqued.
My C7ZX was pristine as well. I did have to have the flanges milled .010 to true it up.

[shelbydoug]

Doug: The AMK 1967 Shelby kit does come with a thicker than usual washer.  I think part of the issue is installing them without any washers.
I even used a little TA31 sealer on them this last time.  The spot-faced areas seem to get cracks in them when over-torqued.
My C7ZX was pristine as well. I did have to have the flanges milled .010 to true it up.

I'm thinking of having the misalignment of the valve cover to head milled smooth. That really bugs me.

The guy I trust though won't do it and wants to send me to a guy who thinks aluminum is just $.17 a pound in junk. I don't even want to leave the manifold out of my sight?


Mine is still pretty virgin and still has some blue overspray on it at the thermostat housing.

[The Going Thing]

My intake is about .060 taller than the head VC rails.  The cork worked where the rubber didn't. Despite using super weatherstrip adhesive when I torqued the hell of them I squeezed it out in a couple of spots and they leaked.  The nice thick cork didn't leak a drop during my drive last night.
I have the restrictors in the head, but I always wonder how much oil winds up sitting in the head being cold idle the oil pressure is about 88PSI.
That's with 10-30 Valvoline VR1.  I was very liberal ( Yes, in this instance! LOL) with the Isky cam lube because I re-used the cam in the new block. It showed up in the last oil change. I guess the moly is hard to get out completely. I just turned 1900 miles.

[shelbydoug]

My intake is about .060 taller than the head VC rails.  The cork worked where the rubber didn't. Despite using super weatherstrip adhesive when I torqued the hell of them I squeezed it out in a couple of spots and they leaked.  The nice thick cork didn't leak a drop during my drive last night.
I have the restrictors in the head, but I always wonder how much oil winds up sitting in the head being cold idle the oil pressure is about 88PSI.
That's with 10-30 Valvoline VR1.  I was very liberal ( Yes, in this instance! LOL) with the Isky cam lube because I re-used the cam in the new block. It showed up in the last oil change. I guess the moly is hard to get out completely. I just turned 1900 miles.

See. Goes to show that there's at least a little liberal in everyone?

The 428 I suppose is about right at .060? My 427 was ridiculous. It had a "J" sidewinder on it. Must have been at least .100?


I like about 60psi cold op. The old racer's adage is 10psi for every 1,000rpm, but go with what the engine builder recommends.

The FE's have more of a tendency to pump the oil up into the valve covers then the other Ford engines I've run. Don't your Edelbrock heads have bigger drain back holes?

If you are running solid lifters, you can run push rods with restricted oil holes. The Clevelands need those.

[Royce Peterson]

+1 this step is very important even if it has a cast iron intake. Retorque after the first heat cycle.

  I have found that retorquing aluminum intakes the next day gets a little extra movement to the bolts.