1967 to 1968 production Mustangs with 427 Engine installation.

[The Going Thing]

I'm glad Royce found the pictures of this car. I looked for it. I saw it too. Piss poor restoration/paintwork.  To get a reproduction tag from Marti you have to provide both vins and the title for the vehicle. He's very particular. He used to stamp the aprons with the ford VIN. I don't think he's doing that anymore.

[shelbydoug]

I remember the story vaguely. It was before anything could be documented.

[The Going Thing]

We already had someone "Claim" that Marti said there was a W code. He said the EXACT opposite and to me personally. My statement wasn't hearsay.
We have had a couple talks about his product as well.  The wires are done and fit well. I just wish he would have someone produce a much better quality wire so It would allow use on cars with performance ignition.

[shelbydoug]

Why did seemingly all of Ford's stamping machines turn up in Oklahoma? I think I remember talking to that guy too. He had a very hostile aditude towards everyone and everyone was stupid except him.

[The Going Thing]

I think there is someone there that stamps reproduction license plates in OKC.  I wonder if It's Pookie's long lost cousin. LOL

[shelbydoug]

I wonder if it's the same group that was making Shelby Convertibles?

[The Going Thing]

I think the company is in Broken Arrow, OK.  Brand New Muscle Car?  I read about that somewhere. It's not even licensed by Carroll Shelby Enterprises, but Denise Halicki.  What a "Blue Chip" investment. Basement models starting at 199,000.  Oh, such a bargain. No race history, not historical connection, but it looks cool! lol

[Royce Peterson]

I have spoken to Kevin many times about this and he said to me several times that not only did it never happen but there is no evidence to support it even being planned to happen. Kevin has written in at least two of his books the same thing. If there is a car with a W in the VIN it is a 1968 Cougar or a 1967 Fairlane / full size Ford. No Mustangs and No Shelby products ever got a 427 at the assembly line in any Ford plant anywhere.

The spark plug wires produced by Kevin are made exactly as they would have been made in the period, using exactly the same materials and techniques. He's not interested in producing anything any other way.

We already had someone "Claim" that Marti said there was a W code. He said the EXACT opposite and to me personally. My statement wasn't hearsay.
We have had a couple talks about his product as well.  The wires are done and fit well. I just wish he would have someone produce a much better quality wire so It would allow use on cars with performance ignition.

[The Going Thing]

Well, at some point they'll realize that 99% of Shelby and Mustang owners aren't Concours types. We're performance enthusiasts while trying to keep the car looking somewhat period. Offering something that fits correctly and is of high quality would be received well.

[shelbydoug]

I'm using Marti's wires with a pointless ignition.

So far I'm busy with other issues but I'm not seeing cross firing although I'm not going to be surprised to find some eventually.

I had a set of original wires that came with the car. I replaced them because they were hard and inflexable. They would crunch internally like a piece of chalk breaking when I would disconnect them from a plug. The Marti wires which look the same, do not.

They are soft and flexible.

My impression was that they were not of the same composition internally however consulting with myself, which includes a lot of talking to myself, doesn't come necessarily to the correct scientific conclusions. I don't think it is the same wire as what was on the car. It just looks the same.

I got the impression the original wires were some sort of a rigid carbon and the Marti reproductions were another type of wire although looking the same externally?

The main issue I see is the way that the wires connect to the cap. It's kind of crude and not as positive as an MSD cap would be. That's where I would expect to see cross firing. Right there at the cap.

The other thing is I don't know how long they will work with the headers? Only time will tell.

[Shelby_r_b]

I've used Marti's plug wires on a couple Shelbys, and they've worked great. However, the set I bought for my current 67 didn't fare well. Several of the wires separated from the boot on the spark plug side. Given I love to drive my cars, I replaced those wires with 8mm wires. Now, all is good. 👍🏻

[shelbydoug]

I've used Marti's plug wires on a couple Shelbys, and they've worked great. However, the set I bought for my current 67 didn't fare well. Several of the wires separated from the boot on the spark plug side. Given I love to drive my cars, I replaced those wires with 8mm wires. Now, all is good. 👍🏻

I have a couple of the blue Motorcraft 8mm silicone wires I was running. I got on this kick of making it look "original" (within my definition of looking original).



The power of suggestion from Gaines works on you. He has this subliminal power of suggestion and reasoning that is difficult to resist for ever.

I went with an AUTOLITE black cap and Marti wires along with things like blue painted wire clips on the valve covers. Just enough to make someone who has some knowledge look at the engine, see the little details and say to themselves, "huh?"

The Devil is devious.

[The Going Thing]

The Autolite cap depending on who you purchased it from are of great quality with brass contacts instead of aluminum.  As for the wires,  the final straw was the torn red boots despite the use of some dielectric grease in the boot.

[shelbydoug]

The Autolite cap depending on who you purchased it from are of great quality with brass contacts instead of aluminum.  As for the wires,  the final straw was the torn red boots despite the use of some dielectric grease in the boot.

I'm not there yet. So far the boots are good on the headers. Maybe the ceramic coating helps?

The only thing with the coating, it always looks cool, and I've burned myself on the headers several times thinking they had cooled down?

[The Going Thing]

The Autolite cap depending on who you purchased it from are of great quality with brass contacts instead of aluminum.  As for the wires,  the final straw was the torn red boots despite the use of some dielectric grease in the boot.

I'm not there yet. So far the boots are good on the headers. Maybe the ceramic coating helps?

The only thing with the coating, it always looks cool, and I've burned myself on the headers several times thinking they had cooled down?

Doug, I agree. They certainly don't radiate the heat of cast iron manifolds. The aluminum heads do cool much faster than the iron heads as well.